Sommelier Chat: Rajat Parr
By Catherine Fallis

Nationally acclaimed sommelier Rajat Parr, wine director for the Mina Group (Michael Mina and Clock Bar at the Westin St. Francis in San Francisco, Arcadia in San Jose, Nobhill and Seablue at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas, and more) is having his dream come true with the realization of RN 74, an urban wine bar opening later this month in the Millenium Tower at 301 Mission Street in San Francisco.

RN 74 is named after Route National 74 that runs through the Burgundy region in France. Parr fell in love with the wines of Burgundy while apprenticing with Rubicon’s master sommelier Larry Stone, and has since become one of the nation’s experts on the topic. Naturally, Burgundy get tops billing in the wine list, though Pinot Noir (the grape of Red Burgundy) and Chardonnay (the grape of White Burgundy) from warmer parts of the world will be featured, along with a selection of other wines from around the globe. While the focus appropriately is on value, collector Wilf Jaeger has given Parr exclusive access to his personal collection so if one wants to go big, it can be arranged.

Parr was so impressed with an Italian enomatic wine dispenser he observed in Tokyo that he had one custom designed for 32 of his 50 wines-by-the-glass selections, many of which will be priced at $7 or $8. These machines are designed to keep wine fresh for days, even weeks in some cases, giving guests a far greater range to choose from, especially all of you wine-savvy Bay Area folks. Though the building and sophisticated wine list may be intimidating, Parr points out that he wants the place to be “totally casual, a fun environment, with no amuse bouche, no show plates, no flowers, no suits, no uniforms, and good music. Expect to see me in jeans.”  He continues, “With our pricing, folks can get in and out the door for $25 per person. Many bottles will be priced from $20 to $30, and more than that at $40 to $50.

Parr is very much expecting the trade, too, with a private room in the back available if a winemaker pops in with a couple of bottles or barrel samples, or a group of sommeliers at the end of the night wants to get together and chill out. He says he misses the camaraderie he experienced at Rubicon, where the legendary Stone mentored many sommeliers and regularly held organized and impromptu blind tastings. Things started to change when Stone left, and now of course that restaurant is shuttered. Parr has also been traveling so much that he is looking forward to really settling back into the Bay Area wine community.

Former Gary Danko and Quince sommelier Christie Dufault and Highlands Inn Wine Director Bernabe deLuna have joined the sommelier team, which is really exciting news. So many wine bars or restaurants have great wine lists but no one on the floor to answer questions. The rest of the staff is made up of seasoned pros, too. More than half have worked with Raj and the Mina group, though perhaps in more formal settings, and all had to pass a wine test given during the job interview.

Executive chef Jason Berthold, a Mina veteran, is Parr’s good friend, and, like Parr, makes wine on the side. As far as designing the food menu for this wine-themed establishment, Parr says, “We worked backwards. We talked about it. The center is wine and we have to create food around it.” He also points out, “We are willing to cook for the wines — we will make a menu around your wine.” Talk about a dream come true!

RN 74: in Millennium Tower, 301 Mission St., San Francisco, 415-543-7474

BARGAIN WINES From RN 74
By-the-glass
CHARDONNAY, RAMONET BOURGOGNE BLANC, BURGUNDY, FRANCE 2006 $12

PINOT NOIR, REGIS BOUVIER BOURGOGNE 'MONTRE CUL', BURGUNDY, FRANCE 2007 $12

SYRAH, PIERRE GAILLARD CORNAS 'LES COMBES', RHONE, FRANCE 2007 $16

By-the-bottle
CHATEAU DE PULIGNY-MONTRACHET ST. ROMAIN, BURGUNDY, FRANCE 2005 $59

REGIS BOUVIER MARSANNAY 'CLOS DU ROY', BURGUNDY, FRANCE 2006 $60

ANDRE PERRET ST. JOSEPH ESTATE, RHONE, FRANCE 2006 $59

SIP-worthy Event

Artisanal Chocolate & Wine Pairing Class at the Professional Culinary Institute of Silicon Valley
Saturday April 4, 12:30 to 2:00 p.m.
Professional Culinary Institute of Silicon Valley, 700 W. Hamilton Ave., Campbell

Join Catherine Fallis MS, CWP, aka grape goddess, named “Best of the Bay” by San Francisco Magazine for wine education, for this delectable lineup of artisanal chocolates and eight wines. $75 per person. Call 888-PCI-LEARN or e-mail deriksen@pcichef.com; grapegoddess@planetgrape.com for reservations and information.