Controlling the Spigot

The art of the négociant is an old, honorable one. The word is French, and refers to businessmen who, for centuries, controlled the wine spigot between producers and consumers. Basically, négociants purchased grapes and/or wine from vignerons, and then blended (“elevated”) it to make the best wine they could, and sold it on the open market. Some of the best-known names in the French wine industry started as négociants, including Barton & Guestier, Moueix, Duboeuf, Guigal, Bouchard, Jaboulet, and Jadot.

In France, eventually, négociants were made obsolete, as wineries (chateaux, domaines) began estate bottling their own wines and selling it to accounts. Interestingly, here in California, the past decade has seen an eruption in the number of companies acting as négociants. With grapes and bulk wine easily obtainable, practically anybody can do it.

One big difference between the old French model and the new California one is quality. The négociants of 18th century Bordeaux had little control over the quality and consistency of what they bought. If it was less than good, they bought it anyway, and elevated it as best they could. Today’s California négociants, on the other hand, are in the driver’s seat. With the market so red-hot competitive, they’re able to insist on better vineyard practices for the grapes, and better winery practices for the wine. And the consumer benefits, too. Since négociants don’t have to own vineyards or large production facilities (and consequently don’t have big staffs to pay), they can keep their prices down.

One of the most successful négociants of recent years has been Cameron Hughes. His strategy is to buy barrels of high-quality wine, then sell direct to consumers or retail. You’d be surprised at some of the sources of his wines – super-premium producers who just can’t sell everything they make. One of my Yummy Recommendations this week is a Cameron Hughes wine, the 2006 Lot 88 Ancient Vines Zinfandel.

A variant on the négociant idea, sort of an outgrowth of it, is San Francisco’s very own Crushpad.

They buy grapes from some of California’s top vineyards, and make them into bottled wine at their Potrero Hill facility. You, the customer, can get involved as much or as little as you like in the production process. They’ll even design a private label for you.

 

E-mail: Steve@yummyletter.com

Yummy Recommendations of the Week

Cameron Hughes 2006 Lot 88 Ancient Vines Zinfandel, $13. The exact names of the two Amador County vineyards are a secret. But what’s clear is that this briary, peppery Zinfandel is classic Sierra Foothills. With alcohol below 15%, it’s ripe in wild forest berry and spice flavors. Call the winery at 1-800-805-1971 for availability.

Hendry 2008 Rosé, $13. Hendry is a respected Napa Valley producer of Cabernets and Zinfandels. Last year, they decided to have a little fun, and made this delightful blush wine. It’s an unusual blend of Bordeaux varieties and Primitivo, the Italian variety that’s similar to Zinfandel. Ideal for light dining, picnics and poolside sipping during the warm summer months.
Visit the Web site for availability.

Sip-Worthy Wine Events

19th Annual Family Winemakers of California tasting
Sunday, Aug. 23, at Fort Mason. $50 in advance, $60 at the door. 400+ wineries gather and pour, with all the cheese and paté you can eat. Tickets online at www.familywinemakers.org or call 877-772-5425.

Russian River Valley Winegrowers “Grape to Glass Weekend.”
Aug. 14-16. This is one of Sonoma County’s most fun events, held every summer under the sun. Wineries open their doors, there’s a fun run, and the wine and food are plentiful. For more information and to register go online to www.rrvw.org or call the RRVW office at 707-521-2534.  Advanced registration required, space is limited.

Check out my blog at www.steveheimoff.com for all the latest insider stuff.