I was in Paso Robles last week on a wine tasting and fact-finding mission, and returned home with more respect than ever for this large (667,000 acre) American Viticultural Area, or AVA.
The system of AVAs was established by the Federal government in the early 1980s to assure consumers of the origin of their wines. When an AVA appears on the label, it means that a minimum of 75-percent of the grapes come from that area. But an AVA is not a guarantee of quality, the way it can be in European countries.
Paso Robles, which is halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles, in California’s Central Coast, was approved as an AVA in late 1983, relatively early in the process. (By comparison, the U.S.’s first AVA was Augusta [Missouri], in 1980. Napa Valley was the country’s second AVA, approved in February 1981.)
For decades, Paso Robles’ wine industry was only a blip on California’s radar. In the 1970s, pioneers like Gary Eberle were setting down stakes and exploring the possibilities. By the early 1980s,
Eberle had established his eponymous winery, while nearby, Ken Volk set up Wild Horse. Yet for many years to follow, Paso Robles seemed content to produce common, rather than extraordinary, wines.
That has begun to change. Today, Paso Robles is in a state of excited fermentation, no pun intended. Across its expanse, vintners, working closely with growers, are relentlessly pushing quality, seeking to produce wines of complexity and depth. The best wines are invariably reds; it’s difficult to produce a truly dry, elegant white wine in this warmish climate. Among the reds, Bordeaux blends take the top prize overall, but individual producers excel at Rhône-style wines. The odd Zinfandel or multi-variety blend can also be standouts.
Recently there’s been a great deal of political wrangling over sub-AVAs within the greater Paso Robles region. Some winemakers on the western side, convinced the public and critics will always see “Paso Robles” as a synonym for “common,” have clamored to come up with different AVA names. The Tax and Trade Bureau, the arm of the U.S. Treasury Dept. that approves AVAs, so far has resisted, but the day is coming when it will have to give the nod to as many as a dozen new AVAs. It’s not a simple case of the West being cooler than the East; but there certainly are much cooler areas in the West than in the East. When I was there last week, it was 81 degrees on my car’s thermometer at
Jack Creek Cellars, on the western edge of the AVA. By the time I got to downtown Paso Robles – about 10 miles away – the temperature was 101. So on that basis alone, there’s something dramatic going on. Look for multiple AVAs to come online in the future. Keep your eyes especially on one that will be called Willow Creek, a hilly region in the West that benefits from the coastal breezes of a low area of the Santa Lucia Mountains called the Templeton Gap.
Mandolin is a small winery in Monterey County. Winemaker Phillip Zorn brings a European sensibility to his wines, while Monterey’s cool coastal climate contributes its own zesty acidity. Drink this off-dry Riesling with a salad of smoked trout on butter lettuce, with a fruit-based dressing. Contact the winery for availability.
Luxury Etude 2006 Heirloom Pinot Noir, $90
The veteran winemaker Tony Soter established Etude in the 1980s on the Napa side of the sprawling Carneros AVA, and quickly earned a reputation for Pinot Noir. The sourcing on “Heirloom” has changed over the years, but the wine remains big, rich and opulent. Give it some time in the cellar; then drink with roasted leg of lamb or a fine steak. Contact the winery for availability.
This is a multi-day event in this beautiful southland city. It showcases 170 wineries, the fare of 70 local restaurants and live entertainment. And of course there’s the San Diego Zoo to add to the attractions. San Diego’s average temperature in November is a high of 70 degrees, low of 54, and it’s unlikely to rain.
I was in Paso Robles last week on a wine tasting and fact-finding mission, and returned home with more respect than ever for this large (667,000 acre) American Viticultural Area, or AVA. 
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