It happened again yesterday: I opened an expensive bottle of Pinot Noir and as soon as the cork popped out, that nasty smell of moldy cardboard assaulted my nose. Another fine wine was victimized by trichloroanisole, otherwise known as TCA.
In my experience, about 1 in every 20 bottles of wine suffers from some degree of spoilage from TCA. Some people are more sensitive to it than others. Once you experience a real high level of TCA, the sense-memory sticks in your brain, and you start to notice it more.
It was something of a coincidence, then, when I opened the mail yesterday and got the latest newsletter from
Amorim the world’s largest wine cork closure company. Over the years, it’s been interesting to watch how the cork industry has responded to increasing complaints – from writers, restaurateurs and merchants, among others – about TCA. The industry has promised to eradicate it, but somehow they seem unable to get rid of TCA completely. (After all, it is a natural substance.)
In the Amorim newsletter there are signs of how the cork industry is tackling this sensitive issue. First, they’re touting artificial “corks” such as their new Acquamark, which looks like a cork but isn’t. Secondly, they’re talking about cork’s sustainable, green properties. For instance, they say “Carbon dioxide emissions associated with cork stoppers are significantly lower than those associated with aluminum screw caps...” This is meant to appeal to ecologically-minded consumers, and also to ward off the threat of screw tops.
Personally, I like corks. The romance of pulling them, the rich sound of the pop, is part of the ritual of a fine bottle of wine. But every time I get a tainted wine it ticks me off. Where we’re probably going in the future is that inexpensive wine will be in screw tops, or artificially stoppered. Ultra-premium wines will probably remain in natural corks for quite some time (partly for the image, and partly because they can afford the best corks). As for the vast range of wines that are in between inexpensive and expensive, each of them will have to choose whether to stay with cork, or go with something else.
Drew Family Vineyards 2007 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir, $42, is from a great vineyard in the Anderson Valley of western Mendocino. This is a brilliant young Pinot Noir that’s beautiful now and should develop well fo
r at least 6 years.
Angeline 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, $15. Angeline is a second label from the well-regarded Martin Ray Winery. Their range of varietal wines almost always represents good value. This zesty Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Russian River Valley. It brims with bright flavors of Asian pears, gooseberries and figs.
Two Sip-Worthy Wine Events
17th Annual Monterey Wine Country Annual Winemakers’ CelebrationSat. Aug. 8, 2009, at the Custom House Plaza in downtown Monterey. Fifty Monterey County wineries will pour their finest, to live music and finger foods from local restaurants. Make a mini-vacation of it and visit the Aquarium. $45 in advance, $50 day of event. Call 831-375-9400.
Paso Robles Harvest Wine Weekend Oct. 16-18, 2009. This is a terrific annual event and Paso Robles is one of my favorite off-the-beaten-path wine destinations. By October, the intense heat of summer is finally breaking, as the area’s many wineries open their doors for tasting and snacks. This is the best way to meet the proprietors and learn about each winery’s wines and personality. It’s worth putting on your calendar now. For info, go to
r at least 6 years.
