I just finished a feature article on Russian River Valley Zinfandel for Wine Enthusiastmagazine for the August issue. It got me thinking about a variety that I haven’t really considered much for a couple of years, because Zinfandel has been so overshadowed by other wines, especially Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon.
When I started writing about wine, there were so many different kinds of Zinfandels, it was almost like a guessing game. White Zin, pink Zin, red Zin, sweet Zin, dry Zin, tannic Zin, age-worthy Zin, high alcohol Zin, carbonic-macerated Zin. Somebody even once made a sparkling Zin! (Ugh. That still makes me gag.) But for me, the best Zinfandels were those described as “claret-like.” Claret was the old British term for the red wines of Bordeaux, and a claret-like Zin was one of elegance.
Fortunately the quality of Zinfandel has been on the uptick lately, partly because of better vintages since 2004, and partly because natural selection has insured that the best producers, who are the most committed to quality, are now receiving prices that enable them to stay in business. (Even so, in parts of the Russian River Valley, great old Zinfandel vineyards are being ripped out and replaced by Pinot Noir, which almost always gets a higher bottle price.)
I’ll admit I’m not much of a Zinfandel drinker. But when I get one that really has something to say, I enjoy giving it a high score. Here’s what I look for in a good Zin: dryness (absolutely, positively no residual sugar); refined tannins; good, balancing acidity; fruit and spice. At their best, they do have the complexity of a great Cabernet, yet always with Zin’s wild, slightly feral quality. If Cabernet is a Town Car, a great Zin is a ride on a camel.
Here are some of the best Russian River Valley Zinfandels I’ve had lately:
I would happily drink any of these wines with grilled meats, especially on a summer evening. And if you’re in the backyard and it’s really hot, you have my permission to throw in an ice cube. (Those angry Zin purists with pitchforks will be coming after me, I’m sure.)
Merry Edwards 2006 Flax Vineyard Pinot Noir ($54) at the winery
It ain’t cheap, but this is one outstanding Pinot Noir from superstar Pinot winemaker Edwards. I gave it 95 points for its sheer lusciousness, but it’s also age-worthy.
A bargain wine: Beaulieu 2007 Chardonnay ($17) on sale for $12.89 at Wine Chateau.com
Grown in the winery’s vineyards in Carneros, which is the southern part of Napa near the Carquinez Straits, this Chard has polished flavors of pineapples, pears and honey, with the acidity and minerally tang that comes from cool-climate viticulture.
Sip-Worthy Wine Events
Wine Events Throughout May Various Bay Area locations
Check out the blog, SavvyTaste to find local wine events during May. As the weather warms up, there’ll be more and more happenings, and you don’t have to drive all the way up to Napa/Sonoma.
Fourth Annual Uncorked! Wine Festival Saturday, May 16, 1–6 p.m.
More than 50 California wineries will pour from wine booths on the brick plaza, and the event also features live music, seminars and chef demonstrations. Free, but $50 buys you unlimited tasting privileges.
