Noble Varieties and Their Attributes

Connoisseurs always have divided wines into two over-arching groups: noble types, and all others. Julius Caesar preferred his Falernian, especially from a Comet year. Richard Nixon liked Chateau Margaux, which his butler poured wrapped in a napkin so the other guests wouldn’t see he wasn’t getting the same regular AOC Bordeaux as they were.

In what Donald Rumsfeld infamously called “Old Europe,” they’ve long distinguished noble varieties from ordinary ones. The nobles traditionally have been Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling. Syrah missed the boat in the 18th and 19th centuries, primarily because too few Englishmen (who more or less wrote the rules back then) were not aware of the wines of Hermitage and Cote-Rôtie; but once they discovered them, Syrah quickly was added to the noble list.

Here in California, these same varieties tend to make the best wines to my palate as well as to most of my fellow wine critics’. Sorry, Zinfandel, you might be half-noble, but that leaves you half-commoner, too. Sauvignon Blanc? Never noble. Ditto for Pinot Gris, Semillon, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese and anything else you care to name. They always have something rustic about them — and if there’s anything nobility turns its nose up at, it’s rusticity.

I looked in Wine Enthusiast’s database (such a powerful tool, a database) at my top-scoring wines since Jan. 1 of this year, and not surprisingly, every one was a noble variety. Here are the top six:

1. Hall 2006 Sacrashe Vineyard “Exzellenz” Bordeaux blend (Rutherford) $150
2. Kendall-Jackson 2006 Highland Estates Trace Ridge Bordeaux blend (Knights Valley) $125
3. Sequana 2007 Sundawg Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley) $50
4. Qupé 2005 Bien Nacido Vineyard X Block “The Good Nacido” Syrah (Santa Maria Valley) $95
5. Merry Edwards 2006 Klopp Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) $57

And — surprise! —

6. Hartford Court 2007 Highwire Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley) $55

I know I just wrote that Zinfandel is not a noble variety, but this wine was like Princess Diana: technically a commoner, but noble by virtue of some particular, fabulous quality that would not, and could not, be denied.

I’m sorry that the best noble wines are so expensive. They’ve always been that way, always will be ... probably. Even this worldwide recession, which seems to be overturning apple carts everywhere, won’t be enough to undo thousands of years of wine history in which the best wine always, and of necessity, is the most costly.

Yummy Wine Recommendations of the Week

One bargain wine:
Ballentine 2008 Pocai Vineyard Estate Grown Chenin Blanc (Napa Valley) $15

Chenin Blanc is a popular variety from France’s Loire Valley, where it produces a racy, mineraly, and often very dry wine. In California, it hasn’t been so lucky. Most of it is grown in the Central Valley and the Delta, and goes into anonymous jug wines. But a few producers stubbornly stick by it, none more so than Ballentine. Their Chenin Blanc is nearly always a very good wine, and at this price, a great bargain — and from Napa Valley, to boot. The wine is dry and tart in acidity, with flavors of citrus fruits, Asian pear and black pepper. It should be easy to find, with 1,680 cases produced, or try contacting the winery. http://www.ballentinevineyards.com

Another wine:
Pessagno 2007 Lucia Highlands Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands) $28

Steve Pessagno is a veteran Central Coast winemaker. He came up the hard way before finally owning his own brand. This Pinot Noir was grown from his vineyard on a cool, wind-swept bench land of the Santa Lucia Mountains, which line the western side of the Salinas Valley. The wine is a real beauty: full-bodied and rich in cherries, raspberries, cocoa, and sandalwood, yet with an elegant, silky mouth feel. The quality is as high as many Pinot Noirs costing twice as much. It’s available at the winery. http://www.pessagnowines.com

SIP-worthy Wine Events

Sonoma County Grape Camp
Mon.–Wed., Sep. 21–23, 2009
Various locations, 707-522-5860

If I were a regular wine-loving consumer (instead of a working wine writer), and if I had three days in September and $1,750 to spend, I can’t think of a more fun, educational and unforgettable experience than to sign up for the Sonoma County Grape Camp.

Yes, it’s pricey. But this once-in-a-lifetime extravaganza will give a wine lover a huge boost in knowledge and understanding of how wine comes to be, from harvesting the grapes in the vineyard to crushing and fermenting the juice to blending the final wine that goes into the bottle. Along the way, you’ll eat and drink with winemakers, listen to lectures by notable speakers, and stay for two nights at the Vintners Inn in Santa Rosa.

If this piques your imagination, visit the Web site or give a call. The Sonoma County Winegrape Commission, a nonprofit organization, sponsors the event, so you know the profits will be well spent.