The real Scoop about Manrique, Lake Chalet coming, Cupcakes redux

Two vital facts have been overlooked in the reportage of Laurent Manrique’s resignation after six years from Aqua restaurant and the Aqua Development Group on July 23.

Manrique said he could no longer effectively do his job. One important aspect of that was keeping the 17-year-old restaurant looking good.

With the estate of Condy tied up in the courts since Charles Condy’s death in 2006, the tug-o-war between his widow Mary and his three children from his first marriage Chris, Joe and Kerry has the restaurant stalled.

Really surprising, considering his business acumen, Charles Condy died without a will.

By last November, many restaurants seeing the economic handwriting on the wall, secured bank loans as a cushion. Because of the unresolved situation, Aqua couldn’t.

For months, local wags have talked about various entrepreneurs taking a look at/interested in buying Aqua.

What’s to buy? says Manrique, since there is no lease. So, Aqua was on a month-to-month lease for 17 years. Unbelievable.

As for Manrique, he is still the chef and co-owner of Café de la Presse and of Rouge et Blanc Wine Bar, both in San Francisco. He remains a partner, with Christopher Condy, in C&L Partners, a restaurant development company. He is also a partner in the Miura Company, with Master Sommelier Emmanuel Kemiji, which is involved in wine projects.

If restaurateurs Gar and Lara Truppelli have their way, they will soon populate the whole Bay Area with chalets – and that could be a good thing. Presently, they own and run the Beach Chalet Brewery and the Park Chalet Garden Restaurant both at Ocean Beach in San Francisco.

Lake Chalet Seafood Bar & Grill is opening in Oakland in mid-August in the historic 100-year-old Lake Merritt Boat House, serving lunch, dinner and brunch. They are working with Executive Chef Jarad Gallagher; with the design by CCS Architects – think Perbacco, La Mar, Restaurant LuLu and La Toque.

The design will have some boathouse elements, but won’t look like a beached liner.

Chef Gallagher, it seems, has the right resume for the gig. For three years, he was also an executive chef for Restaurants Unlimited at four of their restaurants – a major corporate job. Then he ratcheted up his resume with stints at One Market Restaurant, the French Laundry and La Folie. In addition, in Seattle he worked with Chef Tom Douglas and at Earth and Ocean.

The executive sous chef will be Brian Woods; banquet chef is Frederic Bougon.

I asked the Truppellis how many seats this chalet will encompass and was surprised at the size: Gar Truppelli said, “There are 330 seats including the bar. Outside we have another 150. We also have two banquet rooms. One seats 80 to 90, and the other 30… We can even use our main dining room. This place is made for parties!”

It seems to Scoop that this will be one of the largest, if not the largest restaurant in Oakland, only rivaled by some of the gigantic Chinese banquet halls downtown.

Highlights of the Lake Chalet menu will include such appetizers as English Pea and Ham Hock Soup with crispy brussels sprout leaves and crème fraiche and Dungeness Crab Cakes with popcorn puree, sprouts and pickled onion pedals. Among the notable entree choices ($13.00 to $29.00) look for Petrale Sole “Piccata” with Yukon Gold potato puree, watercress, tomato, a caper-butter sauce and Parmesan cheese; Ahi Tuna and Sweet Onion Gravy with mustard greens and beech mushrooms; and grill items such as Liberty Farms Duck Breast with roasted figs, and Vande Rose Farms BBQ Baby Back Ribs and a Half Pound Burger.

I asked if he had any problems with the city of Oakland or anything else.

“The City has been great, but our main problem is the geese!
Lots of geese eating our new grass,” Truppelli said with a chuckle.

 

Since I brought my favorite teller at the former WaMu, now Chase, a Kara’s Cupcake, I’ve been getting the royal treatment. I felt badly for her, since a few days before, a punk had waved a gun in her face. Everyone knows that a dark chocolate cupcake topped with sea salt cures a lot of ills.

The cupcake fad began in New York a few years ago, migrated here and really boomed when Kara’s opened on Steiner Street, later Ghirardelli, and then Napa.

The former Food Editor of the San Jose Mercury, Carolyn Jung has a really groovy blog called Food Gal.

Yesterday, she reported on the opening of the long awaited
Love’s Cupcakes in downtown San Jose.

She visited the bakery on opening day (July 25). The owner is April Zarazua, a home baker, who graduated from the California Culinary Academy’s pastry program.

The regular size cupcakes are $3.25. There’s also a fun “create-your-own” cupcake option. Choose vanilla or chocolate cake, then your choice of frosting and one topping. Additional toppings are extra.

Jung wasn’t totally sold on Love’s Cupcakes, but told her readers to make their own decision and go to Love’s website to print out a coupon good for one free cupcake with the purchase of two. The offer is valid Aug. 1 through Sept. 1.

Since I am obsessed with cupcakes, I was intrigued
with the offerings at a Bay Ridge, Brooklyn bakery called Robicelli’s,
as reported on New York Chow. Listen to these flavors:

A pear–olive oil cake topped with Danish blue cheese butter cream, candied walnuts, and a drizzle of port reduction.

Another is the Elvis, a banana cupcake crowned with peanut butter butter cream and candied bacon.

I wonder if they would do mail order, overnight…mmm

For more information about GraceAnn’s tours of North Beach, Chinatown & The New Mission, visit www.graceannwalden.net or contact her at gaw@sbcglobal.net.

To read GraceAnn’s monthly column in Northside San Francisco, “Chef’s Chat”.