Chefs Pick up the Brush, Michael Jordan hits Bottega, Vallejo Cuban

I spoke to two chefs who are going to open restaurants in the very near future. Both of them were painting their restaurants.

I asked former PlumpJack Cafe chef James Syhabout how close he was to opening his restaurant, Commis, in Oakland and he said, “Let me see … how much paint do I have on me?”

The same story came from Charlie Kleinman, who was painting the former Les Amis at 568 Sacramento Street in San Francisco.

Syhabout admitted it was better in these tight money times for him to do much of the work himself. He said he was using white paint and the look of the restaurant would be minimalist. He’s taken over the space that housed JoJo for almost a dozen years at 3859 Piedmont Avenue in Oakland. It will still be a long, narrow spot, but he is adding six counter seats that will overlook the stylish exhibition kitchen. In total, there will be 32 seats.

“We’ll be open five nights for dinner, closed Monday and Tuesday.” He expects to open in mid July. “It doesn’t make any sense to work on a menu yet because the produce will be all different by July,” Syhabout explains.

Kleinman says he expects to open Wexler’s, named for the owner and industry pro Max Wexler, around the second week in June. Kleinman says they have opened up the formerly dark space, uncovered a skylight, and installed glass doors. With the bar, there will be 47 seats.

Executive chef Kleinman, who was last at Fish and Farm, has fleshed out his American-cum-barbecue menu. There are many twists on the expected. For example, the short ribs will have a bordelaise sauce that will feature garlic and chipotle. One intriguing dish is a smoked lobster — a blanched lobster is stuffed with a cornbread stuffing and then hot smoked.

There will be smoke and fire, but don’t expect run-of-the-mill 'cue.

We spoke to Cindy Krikorian about a project she and her husband Haig had slated for 2514-2516 San Pablo Avenue in Berkeley, on the same block as their Sea Salt restaurant. They have leased the space from their friendly landlord, but the project for a southern Italian trattoria is on hold for the near future. Cindy didn’t mention the economy, just that the couple have a lot going on with five restaurants: Jimmy Bean, Sea Salt, Fonda Solano, T-Rex and the original Lalime’s. Haig is also busy dealing with his mother’s recent health problems. 

Vallejo is soon getting a Cuban restaurant, Havana Sol at 324 Virginia Street. This space housed Baci Ristorante Lounge & Cafe until it crashed and burned last year. The concept from owner Michael Thompson and his chef Maynard Oestreich will be two eateries in one: A cafe with pastries, breakfast food and coffee will open this month, and a full-service restaurant will follow in June.

Oestreich's menu is designed to pay homage to traditional Cuban cuisine, and to present unique flavors and combinations in both large and small plates. Oh, and they’ll sell cigars.

Last week, I zipped up to Yountville to try Michael Chiarello’s Bottega Napa Valley. To me, it defines the right restaurant in style and price for the times. It’s beautiful and comfortable with new and delicious Italian dishes that ring with authenticity.

The night I was there, it soon became totally packed. I saw Chiarello and we chatted briefly, but he seemed very distracted. Finally, he said, “Jordan is coming at 7:30.” I said, “Sally Jordan?” referring to the wine country and San Francisco socialite, once associated with Jordan winery.

No, Chiarello said, “Michael Jordan.” My jaw dropped. Later I cruised by his table, uh, twice, at a respectful distance, just to take a gander.

Stuff at Bottega that I would crawl over Thomas Keller for: the burrata, the grilled octopus, and the whole fish (Orata) baked in the wood-fired oven. But the item on the menu that knocked my socks off was the smoked olive oil. Chiarello cold-smokes olive oil for 36 hours and uses it to dress his crudo (raw fish) plate.

Bottega is now expanding its lunch service Tuesday through Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Lunch service previously had been only Thursday through Sunday.

I heard from one of my Gotham spies — it seems the Big Apple is all a-Twitter about who will replace Frank Bruni, chief restaurant critic at the New York Times, who will be out flogging a new book and then move to the Sunday New York Times Magazine.
The usual Bay Area suspect is supposedly on the list. But we doubt it — too much baggage and too old.

The same spy tells me that one of my favorite chefs in New York, who thrilled my palate when I was in Manhattan three years ago, Andrew Carmellini when he was at La Voce, will open Locanda Verde in the Greenwich Hotel, which is partly owned by Robert De Niro in TriBeCa.

Locanda Verde takes over from the closed Ago, which was pricey, precious and short-lived. The review by Bruni was starless and helped nail the coffin shut.
Locanda Verde will at the top of my list for the next trip to New York. It’s opening this Tuesday. Expect rustic, comfortable entrees priced between $18 and $25; and a family meal for $32.95.

Good news!  Alioto-Lazio Fish Company, run by the queens of the Wharf, Angela, Annette and Mary Ann, just got in quick-frozen sand dabs. They’re $7 a pound while they last. Located at 440 Jefferson Street in San Francisco, the women of the fish world even have a couple of parking spaces. Their hours are Monday–Friday 6:15 a.m.–2 p.m.; Saturday 7 a.m.–noon; 888-673-5868.

We heard from our pal Marisa Churchill, former Top Chef contender and Bay Area pastry maven, who is executive chef for G.L. Mezzetta, Inc., America's number one producer of imported and domestic peppers and olives located in the Napa Valley.
The company is challenging sandwich lovers/home cooks to submit their recipe for “the best sandwich ever” in the Second Annual Mezzetta Make That Sandwich Contest. The Grand Prize winner will receive $25,000 and a culinary trip and tour of the Napa Valley, while two runners-up will each win $1,000. 

Contestants can enter the Mezzetta Make That Sandwich Contest in any or all of three categories: cold sandwich, hot sandwich, and vegetarian. The grand prize winner will be selected from the category finalists. Entries will be judged on appearance, taste, creativity, and use of Mezzetta products, and will be accepted from Memorial Day (May 25, 2009) to Labor Day (September 7, 2009). 

More information on the Mezzetta Make That Sandwich contest is available at www.mezzetta.com; on-line entry begins next Monday.

Our own Bibby Gignilliat, contributing writer to the Yummy letter’s COOK and co-founder of Parties that Cook, received the 2009 Rising Star award from The national Association of Women Business owners at the 25th Annual Leaders and Legends luncheon held May 15 at the Westin St. Francis. The Rising Star award is given to an exceptional businesswoman who has exhibited outstanding leadership and dedication to the business community.

Parties that Cook specializes in hands-on cooking classes and team building events; visit their Web site to learn more.

Chef/owner Josiah Stone of Sent Sovi in Saratoga is once again hosting the Fifth Annual King of Mushrooms dinner on Thursday, May 28 at 7 p.m.  Morels, porcini, chanterelles, and candy cap mushrooms will all be featured in a multicourse celebration of the noble fungi; $125 including paired wines.