The Weekly Review By Susan Dyer Reynolds
Photos by Elizabeth Armstrong
On Gem-Studded Hyde Street, Luella is the Crown Jewel
When Ben deVries was six years old, he looked up at his mother one night at the dinner table and announced that he would like to be a chef and have his own restaurant. He never wavered from that dream, heading to culinary school in New England, cooking his way up and down the East Coast and finally settling in San Francisco. The day he arrived, he got his first job (at the popular LuLu) and met his future wife, Rachel. It didn’t take long for deVries to make a name for himself, first as opening sous chef at mc2 and then as chef at Ristoranté Ecco, where he received his first three-star review from the San FranciscoChronicle. He also met sous chef Chris Wong and forged a relationship that continues to this day.
The big crescendo for deVries came in 2001 as the opening chef of the Mission District’s Andalu, where critics credited him with putting a new twist on tired tapas with an innovative menu that traversed from Spain to Asia. The national food media also took notice of deVries’ considerable talents and he soon graced the pages of Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Gourmet and The New York Times. Rachel was no slouch at the front of the house either, boasting a resume that included working at La Folie when it opened 20 years ago. Together with his wife and Wong, deVries achieved the nearly lifelong dream of heading his own restaurant when the three opened Luella in the former home of I Fratelli in November 2004. In a fickle food city that is tough on restaurants, Luella has thrived, recently celebrating their fourth anniversary, and deVries and Wong are cooking better than ever.
In the inviting space at 1896 Hyde Street with its tall windows looking out at the iconic Hyde Street cable car line on Russian Hill, deVries’ seasonal Mediterranean-inspired menu sparkles as brightly as the tiny white lights that wind through the leafy trees out front. Diners fight some of the worst parking in the City to visit Hyde Street favorites like Frascati, 1550 Hyde Cafe & Wine Bar and Zarzuela, but even on this gem-studded street, Luella is the crown jewel.
The interior of Luella is tasteful and chic, with walls drenched in soothing shades of eggshell and sage, warm blonde wood accents and soft candlelight. Most of the staff has been there from opening, and it is obvious from their warmth that they love what they do. A sense of family permeates the room — they are professional yet personable — often a fine line to walk, but it works well at Luella.
The hostess seated us in a cozy booth covered in sage green faux ostrich with a perfect view of the main dining room and open kitchen. Even on a Monday night in a tough economy, Luella is bustling, a testament to the importance of regulars. Nearly everyone seems to be on a first-name basis, which is what every restaurateur dreams of — repeat customers who recommend their favorite spot to others, who in turn recommend it to others.
At the back of the restaurant is a darker, more private room perfect for small groups or for those seeking a bit of seclusion. The wall features a wine room covered with an eight-foot glass rectangular panel decorated with acid-etched willow branches, and a green light behind the wine bottles casts a soft emerald glow.
Our server was knowledgeable and helpful as she guided us to a selection of appetizers. We dipped crostini into the nightly special, lush salt cod brandade served with lemon aioli ($9), and we sampled the signature ahi tuna tartare tacos ($13) with lime vinaigrette and mango salsa in a precious shell made from a thin, crisp slice of Kennebunk potatoes, a decadent take on the classic. While they’re not always on the menu, the lightly coated crispy sweetbreads ($12), with a delicate, mineraly flavor reminiscent of abalone, were the best I’ve had. I also liked that the frisée, jicama and pomegranate seeds in mint and herb vinaigrette were more than just a bed for the sweetbreads — beautifully integrated into the dish, the refreshing salad with just a hint of chervil and tarragon could easily stand on its own. Balance also helps the duck confit imperial rolls ($9) — the fried, bubbly shells surround a rich mixture, but the accompanying spicy pomegranate dipping sauce cuts the unctuousness perfectly.
As each dish arrived, I grew more and more appreciative of the fact that nothing on the plate at Luella is simply a garnish. The Gorgonzola polenta cake that cushions the grilled
lamb chops ($12) is so good that it should be offered as a side, while the smoky roasted peppers with sherry vinegar could come out by itself as a dip for bread. Country-style pork ribs ($12) come with the same frisée, jicama and pomegranate seeds that you get with the sweetbreads, again adding a light, refreshing note that says “spring is coming” to what could be a heavy winter offering.
Soups ($8) are always a highlight at Luella — no one other than George Morrone, the king of soups himself, does them better. The creative, usually vegetarian rotating roster includes a silky artichoke puree with shaved pecorino, and almond-potato leek soup with white truffle oil. Done to death, truffle oil in the wrong hands is a miserable experience, but here the earthy aroma enhances rather than overwhelms the scent of the potato
puree, buttery almonds and finely shredded fried leeks on top. The celery root and potato is a shining example of deVries’ and Wong’s penchant for taking humble, underrated ingredients and elevating them to superstar status. Celery root (also known as celeriac) has a bold, grassy flavor somewhat like parsley that plays beautifully against the earthiness of the potato. A drizzle of chive oil finishes off what is one of the best soups I’ve ever eaten.
Entrees include something to suit everyone’s taste, including one of the best pan-roasted chickens ($22) I’ve had since my mother’s, with a caramelized, crispy skin cloaking plump, moist meat. I normally don’t order chicken at restaurants (unless it’s fried), but Luella’s is an exception. Bright green asparagus and a wild mushroom ragu serve as a bed, with a pool of natural jus streaked with a subtle hint of black truffle vinaigrette.
String thin, al dente capellini ($22) — a rare treat because it’s not an easy pasta to make
— is tossed with generous mounds of Dungeness crab, tomato, lemon, chili flakes, and chive, a San Francisco riff on classics like pasta pomodoro and aglio e olio. The noodles are supple yet perfectly chewy.
You can’t talk about Luella without mentioning the Coca-Cola-braised pork shoulder ($21) that has been deVries’ signature since his days at Andalu. There’s a reason he can’t take it off the menu — the meat is so tender it could masquerade as pork pâté and the cola adds just the right touch of sweetness. While the succulent pork is the star, the puree of mellow white beans and pickled red onions give it some oomph.
Luella also offers a prix fixe menu Monday through Thursday with three courses for $33. I loved the house-made gnocchi with more potato than dough, dotted with English peas
and pungent Pecorino in a light porcini mushroom broth.
One of my dining companions couldn’t get enough of the beef Wellington ($29) — he ordered it on three separate visits. Not often found in restaurants, Wellington is a time-consuming British tradition. For his version, deVries wraps a seared filet mignon in puff pastry and drizzles it with bone marrow butter for what is without a doubt one of the most decadent dishes you’ll ever eat. Inside the golden baked crust, the meat remains tender, juicy and medium rare. Horseradish cream and a Yorkshire pudding popover complete the plate.
I’m not usually a fan of halibut because it is so often overcooked and dry, but Luella has an excellent version ($25) with a succulent piece of the local fish in a potage (soup) of shellfish and fresh herbs.
Little Luella Sundays (5 to 7 p.m.) offer parents an opportunity to enjoy grown-up favorites like the Wellington while their kids chow down on a menu inspired by deVries’ own daughter, Gemma, that includes chicken potpie, macaroni and cheese, pizza, and my childhood favorite, fresh pasta with butter and Parmesan. They can wash it all down with a Shirley Temple (and parents can wash down their dishes with one of Luella’s well-chosen wines).
One of the keys to Luella’s success is the symbiotic relationship between deVries and Wong, who have been cooking together for so long they anticipate each other’s every move. It is also obvious there is a strong friendship between the two, reflected in mutual admiration and an egoless desire to see their restaurant grow and thrive.
Wong also shows his versatility on the dessert menu ($8 each), appropriately titled, “Yum” — he’s a self-taught pastry chef with tremendous talent. In the name of journalistic research, we tried every dessert on the list and not one disappointed, but the warm orange and sweet ricotta fritters drizzled with wild honey rate as one of my all-time favorite ways to end a meal. One of my dining companions said, “What’s the big deal about a fritter?” until she took a bite. The next words out of her mouth were, “Oh my goodness.” So light they practically float to your mouth, I decided the fritters should be renamed Chris Wong’s Puffs and, though my dining companions cringed when I said it, that Wong’s chef whites should be embroidered with “Puff Daddy” for creating such a marvel. Mascarpone cheesecake with blackberries and candied almonds is also wonderful, and I especially appreciate the simple, warm chocolate pudding — I have never understood why restaurants continue to serve the ubiquitous lava cake or overly intense pots de crème when the perfect dessert is just a childhood memory away.
The wine list at Luella — a nice mix of California, French and Italian varietals — features around 50 well-priced, well-chosen bottles and about 15 selections by the glass.
When people ask me where I like to eat when I’m off the clock, Luella has always been one of my answers. As they head toward the five-year mark, I can say unequivocally that Luella is better than ever.
Luella: 1896 Hyde Street, near Green, San Francisco, 415-674-4343; dinner Monday through Saturday 5:30 to 10 p.m., Sunday 5 to 9 p.m. Reservations suggested.
AMBIANCE
Warm and friendly neighborhood gem is chic and romantic, but still comfortable enough for a night with the kids.
SOUND LEVEL
Even during peak hours, you can hold a conversation without screaming — this is a good place for a date, a business meeting, or to hear yourself think.
LIGHT LEVEL
Bring your Mini Maglite — the tiny type is printed on a sage green background and the lighting, while chic, is dim.
NOT TO MISS DISHES
Beef Wellington, pan-roasted chicken, Coca-Cola-braised pork shoulder, tuna tartare tacos, sweetbreads (when available), anything with pasta, any of the soups, Puff Daddy’s fabulous fritters.
WHAT THE DIAMONDS MEAN
Yummy ratings range from zero to four diamonds and reflect food, atmosphere and service, taking price range and style of the restaurant into consideration.
OUR REVIEW POLICY
We conduct multiple visits anonymously and pay our own tab.
Dishing with...Chef Gary Danko
By Susan Dyer Reynolds
In an era of increasingly media savvy chefs, Gary Danko’s candidness, lack of interest in the limelight, and sharp wit are a welcome respite. So is his continued devotion to his eponymous restaurant — he still picks out the flowers and notices the slightest smudge on the glass of a picture frame (and wipes it off meticulously). Danko has forgotten more about food than most people will ever know — the library at his offices in San Francisco’s Cannery is filled with multiple editions of his favorites books about cookery and cuisine. While other world-class chefs are selling their souls to Las Vegas, Danko prefers to stay closer to home. At one time he talked about opening a large private dining facility at the Cannery where he could host small group and private dinners, teach occasional cooking classes, and possibly grow a catering business. For now, that’s on the back burner as he finalizes plans to open a bistro in Ghirardelli Square later this year.
Fun fact: Danko’s father was a builder, and it was while working with him on a restaurant project one summer that he discovered he preferred working in the kitchen to building it. He also put those building and problem-solving skills to use at school functions. “I sort of say I ran the high school,” he smiles mischievously. “I’d come up with a theme for the prom, build a gazebo out of chicken wire to decorate it, and if I couldn’t get what I needed, I would find a way. I could do anything with a pair of scissors, a staple gun and some crepe paper. I had a certain sense of drama even then. I like things outrageous, but I’m not the front man — I’m behind the scenes, more the producer-director.”
Last thing you cooked for yourself?
Breakfast — I make buckwheat blinis at the restaurant — I use the same batter for pancakes — with caramelized apples, Greek yogurt, and maple syrup.
Favorite food from your childhood?
My mother’s chicken paprikash — my father’s Hungarian and she learned to make it for him. We’d have it on Sundays. You heat these spaetzle, sort of dumplings, with it.
The texture with the stew was great.
How would you describe working in your kitchen?
Intense, but not verbally accosting or belligerent. It’s an empowered kitchen where people know what they’re supposed to do. I talk to them later if they don’t do it — I don’t confront them in the kitchen.
Something in your fridge or freezer at home that would surprise people?
I don’t know … let’s look [opens refrigerator]. Smucker’s chocolate syrup, Helmand’s mayonnaise — well, Best Foods on the West Coast — for tuna sandwiches. Some days I just crave tuna salad on Vital Vittles bread with onions and celery. The mayonnaise came from Costco. I shop at Costco. Would that surprise people?
A meal or a dish that, as a young chef, was an inspiration or a revelation?
Jean-George’s (Vongerichten) sea urchin and fennel soufflé, served in the sea urchin, when he first started out in New York.
Restaurants you like to eat at when you’re off the clock?
I like Luella a lot, and Blue Plate. At Luella, the Coca-Cola pork is always good; it’s a chic setting, great food, and a great staff. Blue Plate is great also, and they have this secret garden with outdoor heaters — I call them chicken brooder heaters — and trumpet flowers. It’s gorgeous.
The dish on your menu that will follow you wherever you go?
Roast lobster — I can never take that off the menu or people will say, ‘I came all the way from such and such for that!’ If I were to take it off, I would be disappointing people; it’s bad business to take off a signature dish that people love.
Favorite offal?
Definitely sweetbreads.
What are your guilty pleasures?
Double Rainbow and Sierra Nevada. I always have to think, “Do I want ice cream, or a Sierra Nevada?” It’s always the weight issue. I usually choose the Sierra Nevada. But I also love cheesecake … New York cheesecake.
What would your last meal on earth be and where would you have it?
A traditional ancient theme like the Greeks and Romans — the best of everything from four corners of the world served in bed [smiles] … with drag queens feeding me beluga caviar from a huge tin.
The Penny Pincher: Arang Korean Cuisine 1506 Fillmore St. (at Webster), San Francisco, 415-775-9095
Tucked away in the parking lot of the Western Addition Safeway, Arang is a tiny gem of a place to fill up on bargain-priced Korean classics like kim chee (seasoned pickled vegetables, the most common being baechu, made with cabbage) and bi bim bap (a rice dish topped with vegetables and seafood or meat). Arang also has a great lunch box (Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.) — my favorite is the combination, with teriyaki chicken or barbecued beef, tempura, rice, vermicelli noodles, pot stickers, salad, and miso soup, all for $7.95. For just $6.50, the tempura-only lunch box comes with two plump shrimp and eight vegetable pieces in a light, crisp batter. I also like the bi bim bap, either seafood or beef, with a selection of vegetables, bean sprouts, and a fried egg, served piping hot in a stone bowl with gochujang (chili pepper paste). The warm white rice continues to cook at the bottom of the bowl (which is seasoned with a bit of sesame oil to prevent sticking), rendering it golden brown with a nutty, crunchy chew. The bi bim bap is served with miso soup and traditional banchan (side dishes) including baechu kim chee, pickled radish, egg omelet with green onion, and fish cake (lunch: beef $6.50/seafood $7.50, dinner: $8.95/$9.95). While I usually go for the lunch specials, Arang is also perfect for night owls — they serve food until 2 a.m., seven nights a week (the free and easy parking lot is an added bonus in San Francisco).
For the first annual “Best of Northside Food &Wine” issue in 2005, I created a category called “Best burgers with a linen napkin.” This was the beginning of the upscale burger craze, which has since become more of an epidemic, and, in our current economy, a bit of a joke. Don’t get me wrong — I am a firm believer (and longtime advocate) of using natural, humanely sourced (i.e., not factory farmed) meat, but you don’t have to spend over $10 to get it, and our champion this week proves that with gusto.
Before you start e-mailing me about In-N-Out Burger not making the list, their meat sourcing is questionable at best: they were one of the companies buying beef from the Chino slaughterhouse caught in the FBI probe after the Humane Society of the United States produced undercover video of horrific cruelty. While In-N-Out did some quick PR claiming they no longer get their meat from the Chino facility, it’s simply not possible to buy environmentally responsible, humanely raised beef and charge under $3 for a double cheeseburger. With the economy in the dumps, no one feels kindly toward a $10 burger, but you can still get a top-notch burger with cheese under seven bucks — you just won’t get the trendy hotspot vibe (“Would you like a paper napkin with that?”).
Incidentally, my very favorite cheeseburger in the Bay Area is the Tuesday-only special right here in my neighborhood at Rosamunde Sausage Grill (545 Haight St. at Fillmore, 415-437-6851), but because it’s not a regular menu item, I felt it wasn’t fair to include it. If you do happen to be in San Francisco on a Tuesday morning, though, get in line early — they start serving the $5 Niman Ranch wonders at 11:30 and they run out quickly. I must admit, it’s a bit sad to see a great neighborhood secret go mainstream. For years my friends and I have been heading down to Rosamunde, putting in our order, grabbing one of the 50 beers on tap at Toronado next door, and waiting for that legendary cheeseburger — you can’t get any more decadent than that on a weekday before noon.
Besides the Rosamunde Tuesday-only cult classic, here are five of my favorite high quality cheeseburgers under $7:
If you’re an In-N-Out fan, the Rocket burger is for you: it reminds me the most of In-N-Out, but with better meat. The cooked-to-order patty is from Niman Ranch, the granddaddy of humane, sustainable animal husbandry. Niman can still trace the origin of every animal at the many family farms that make up their extended ranch, and they make regular visits to every operation to make sure the purveyors are adhering to their strict standards. The Rocket is sandwiched between a warm griddled bun with the classic LTO (lettuce, tomato, onions), melted cheddar, and a tangy Thousand Island-style special sauce.
4.Mo’s Gourmet Hamburgers 1322 Grant Ave. (at Green), San Francisco, 415-788-3779 772 Folsom St. (in Yerba Buena Gardens), 415-957-3779
Any truly great burger must have the proper bun-to-burger ratio, and Mo’s has it down patty: seven ounces of house-ground center cut chuck fills the crusty, soft bun. They use a fine grind, which produces a silky texture versus the rougher chop of most burger joints. It’s broiled over volcanic rock, creating a slightly smoky flavor with a caramelized exterior and a juicy interior.
Maybe it’s just me, but the burgers taste better at this original location than they do at the San Francisco Ferry Building or the Oxbow Public Market in Napa. When I head up with friends for a few days in Clearlake, I look forward to our stop at Taylor’s for a pink-in-the-middle, juicy slab of Niman Ranch beef topped with a thick, melted slice of American cheese, crisp lettuce, pickles, and secret sauce on a toasted egg bun.
2. Zeitgeist 199 Valencia St. (at Duboce), San Francisco, 415-255-7505
I first started going to Zeitgeist with a biker rockabilly musician boyfriend — it’s a great dive bar with one of the biggest, best patios in San Francisco, and they make a mean Bloody Mary. The cheapest burger in the Fab Five bunch, Zeitgeist’s hefty, classically constructed Niman Ranch burger comes straight off the grill for just $6. The con: surly service (it’s arguably also part of the dive bar charm). The pro: if you don’t want to put up with burger-flipping attitude, the elusive Tamale Lady often appears with her cart full of cornhusk-wrapped gold.
Pickles 42 Columbus Avenue (at Jackson), San Francisco, 415-421-2540. (The Web site is under construction.)
For many years, Clown Alley was a great burger joint that catered to the late night crowd, financial district lunchers, and servicemen on leave in North Beach like my dad and his Navy buddies. Sadly, toward the end, the burgers were greasy and it catered mostly to drunken bridge and tunnel partiers. All the Yelpers whining about its demise need to get over it — the Clown Alley space in the shadow of the Transamerica Pyramid has been remodeled and reinvented by restaurateur Tom Duffy, former owner of Myth, and chef Matthew Kerley (Zinnia, Slow Club, Myth, One Market), who have built a menu around the organic meats of Prather Ranch. Like Niman, the Prather folks can trace the origins of every steer back to its origins (for Prather, that’s the 1970s); they were the first in the country to implement a certified humane slaughter facility, and they are a very small producer (which makes the meat more expensive, and therefore not practical for every restaurant to use). Prather meat is the only reason I will pay $10 for a burger — I want to support this kind of accountable, conscientious, small production ranching — but Pickles has somehow managed to bring their cheeseburger in at under $7 for a 5-ounce patty (plenty filling in my book). The thick burger (no shrinkage here) is served on a soft, freshly baked brioche bun with the works (lettuce, tomato, red onions, and, of course, pickles), and there is ketchup, mustard and mayo on the tables so you can dress it to your liking. I put as little on it as possible and order the meat rare to medium rare (to me, it’s an insult to this level of excellence to ask for the meat well done or load it with stuff so you can’t taste it).
Volume 1 Issue 9 
When Ben deVries was six years old, he looked up at his mother one night at the dinner table and announced that he would like to be a chef and have his own restaurant. He never wavered from that dream, heading to culinary school in New England, cooking his way up and down the East Coast and finally settling in San Francisco. The day he arrived, he got his first job (at the popular LuLu) and met his future wife, Rachel. It didn’t take long for deVries to make a name for himself, first as opening sous chef at mc2 and then as chef at Ristoranté Ecco, where he received his first three-star review from the San Francisco Chronicle. He also met sous chef Chris Wong and forged a relationship that continues to this day. 
Our server was knowledgeable and helpful as she guided us to a selection of appetizers. We dipped crostini into the nightly special, lush salt cod brandade served with lemon aioli ($9), and we sampled the signature ahi tuna tartare tacos ($13) with lime vinaigrette and mango salsa in a precious shell made from a thin, crisp slice of Kennebunk potatoes, a decadent take on the classic. While they’re not always on the menu, the lightly coated crispy sweetbreads ($12), with a delicate, mineraly flavor reminiscent of abalone, were the best I’ve had. I also liked that the frisée, jicama and pomegranate seeds in mint and herb vinaigrette were more than just a bed for the sweetbreads — beautifully integrated into the dish, the refreshing salad with just a hint of chervil and tarragon could easily stand on its own. Balance also helps the duck confit imperial rolls ($9) — the fried, bubbly shells surround a rich mixture, but the accompanying spicy pomegranate dipping sauce cuts the unctuousness perfectly.
lamb chops ($12) is so good that it should be offered as a side, while the smoky roasted peppers with sherry vinegar could come out by itself as a dip for bread. Country-style pork ribs ($12) come with the same frisée, jicama and pomegranate seeds that you get with the sweetbreads, again adding a light, refreshing note that says “spring is coming” to what could be a heavy winter offering.
puree, buttery almonds and finely shredded fried leeks on top. The celery root and potato is a shining example of deVries’ and Wong’s penchant for taking humble, underrated ingredients and elevating them to superstar status. Celery root (also known as celeriac) has a bold, grassy flavor somewhat like parsley that plays beautifully against the earthiness of the potato. A drizzle of chive oil finishes off what is one of the best soups I’ve ever eaten.
— is tossed with generous mounds of Dungeness crab, tomato, lemon, chili flakes, and chive, a San Francisco riff on classics like pasta pomodoro and aglio e olio. The noodles are supple yet perfectly chewy.
and pungent Pecorino in a light porcini mushroom broth.
Wong also shows his versatility on the dessert menu ($8 each), appropriately titled, “Yum” — he’s a self-taught pastry chef with tremendous talent. In the name of journalistic research, we tried every dessert on the list and not one disappointed, but the warm orange and sweet ricotta fritters drizzled with wild honey rate as one of my all-time favorite ways to end a meal. One of my dining companions said, “What’s the big deal about a fritter?” until she took a bite. The next words out of her mouth were, “Oh my goodness.” So light they practically float to your mouth, I decided the fritters should be renamed Chris Wong’s Puffs and, though my dining companions cringed when I said it, that Wong’s chef whites should be embroidered with “Puff Daddy” for creating such a marvel. Mascarpone cheesecake with blackberries and candied almonds is also wonderful, and I especially appreciate the simple, warm chocolate pudding — I have never understood why restaurants continue to serve the ubiquitous lava cake or overly intense pots de crème when the perfect dessert is just a childhood memory away.
In an era of increasingly media savvy chefs, Gary Danko’s candidness, lack of interest in the limelight, and sharp wit are a welcome respite. So is his continued devotion to his eponymous restaurant — he still picks out the flowers and notices the slightest smudge on the glass of a picture frame (and wipes it off meticulously). Danko has forgotten more about food than most people will ever know — the library at his offices in San Francisco’s Cannery is filled with multiple editions of his favorites books about cookery and cuisine. While other world-class chefs are selling their souls to Las Vegas, Danko prefers to stay closer to home. At one time he talked about opening a large private dining facility at the Cannery where he could host small group and private dinners, teach occasional cooking classes, and possibly grow a catering business. For now, that’s on the back burner as he finalizes plans to open a bistro in Ghirardelli Square later this year.
Tucked away in the parking lot of the Western Addition Safeway, Arang is a tiny gem of a place to fill up on bargain-priced Korean classics like kim chee (seasoned pickled vegetables, the most common being baechu, made with cabbage) and bi bim bap (a rice dish topped with vegetables and seafood or meat). Arang also has a great lunch box (Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.) — my favorite is the combination, with teriyaki chicken or barbecued beef, tempura, rice, vermicelli noodles, pot stickers, salad, and miso soup, all for $7.95. For just $6.50, the tempura-only lunch box comes with two plump shrimp and eight vegetable pieces in a light, crisp batter. I also like the bi bim 
bap, either seafood or beef, with a selection of vegetables, bean sprouts, and a fried egg, served piping hot in a stone bowl with gochujang (chili pepper paste). The warm white rice continues to cook at the bottom of the bowl (which is seasoned with a bit of sesame oil to prevent sticking), rendering it golden brown with a nutty, crunchy chew. The bi bim bap is served with miso soup and traditional banchan (side dishes) including baechu kim chee, pickled radish, egg omelet with green onion, and fish cake (lunch: beef $6.50/seafood $7.50, dinner: $8.95/$9.95). While I usually go for the lunch specials, Arang is also perfect for night owls — they serve food until 2 a.m., seven nights a week (the free and easy parking lot is an added bonus in San Francisco).
For the first annual “Best of Northside Food &Wine” issue in 2005, I created a category called “Best burgers with a linen napkin.” This was the beginning of the upscale burger craze, which has since become more of an epidemic, and, in our current economy, a bit of a joke. Don’t get me wrong — I am a firm believer (and longtime advocate) of using natural, humanely sourced (i.e., not factory farmed) meat, but you don’t have to spend over $10 to get it, and our champion this week proves that with gusto. 
