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CookVolume 1 Issue 15 May 13, 2009

Introducing our new COOK contributor North Bay Patricia

I have been cooking in the kitchen and puttering in the garden for more years than I care to tell you about. (A lady has to have some secrets.) There was a time in my life when it seemed everyone I knew was getting graduate degrees. I had two small children and was married to a man whose job required that we move every two or three years, so my options were limited.

After some thought I decided I would specialize in food. Since I had to cook three meals a day, cooking would be my focus. In our two- or three-year stay in each state, I would start at the local library and read my way through all the cookbooks I could lay my hands on. Then I would apply this information in my "kitchen lab." Each new state offered new recipes, new techniques and new foods. Dinners were often surprising, and my children were exposed to many foods they might not have learned about otherwise. We all benefited.

When I returned to California, I offered my services to a regional agriculture magazine and, right time, right place, I got the food column. I began by interviewing the women who helped grow the food and then published their recipes. Inevitably it evolved that my interest in our food sources was heightened, and I began writing agriculture articles as well for that magazine and then several others. After I had spent 15 years there, the original magazine folded and I retired to write, sequentially, two newsletters.

I am now gardening, still cooking, still learning, and delighted to have been asked to contribute home cooking recipes to Yummy.

What does "yummy" mean to me? It is not just a word or a single taste; it is a feeling — that feeling you get when you want to snuggle down into a bowl of mashed potatoes drenched in butter. It is the feeling that overcomes you when you have a mouthful of just-made fudge, or the feeling you get when the grower hands you baskets of just-picked, truly ripe strawberries.

I remember once attending a Sunday gospel service in Harlem. The music was loud, the singing joyous, and the beat accompanied by hand clapping and foot stomping. The hats on the matrons were festive, and as they moved up and down the aisles, they left swirls of color. The scene was almost hypnotic it was so enthralling. Breaking through all this came the word yummy. In the church basement chicken was frying, and that marvelous aroma broke through all else — that was the feeling of yummy.

Cheers,
Patricia

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From Patricia’s Recipe Box

spanish chickenSome recipes are novel and fun for the moment. Others get stuck in your recipe rotation and, because they always work and are always enjoyed, they are used over and over again. While I lived in Hawaii, my neighbor, Bev, shared this one with me. It was one of her family favorites as a child, and of Bev's husband and children; it has become a favorite of mine for many years as well.

Over the years it has been tweaked slightly to take advantage of new ingredients that have come on the market, but the basics are still there.


Bev's Spanish Chicken
(Serves 6)

12 chicken thighs
Salt, pepper and Spanish parika
1/4
cup olive oil
2
cloves garlic, peeled and halved
1
medium to large green pepper, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch strips
1
medium to large yellow pepper, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch strips
1/2 a 16-ounce jar of roasted red peppers, cut into strips
1 15-ounce can of garbanzos, drained and rinsed
3/4 cup dry vermouth
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup green Spanish olives, drained or 4 tablespoons chives chopped

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Generously season the chicken on all sides with salt, pepper and paprika. In a large skillet with a lid or a Dutch oven, heat the oil on low. Add garlic. Watch carefully, stirring often, until the garlic is barely golden. Do not let it brown. Remove the garlic and set aside.

Increase the heat and brown the chicken on both sides in the garlic-infused oil. As the chicken is browned, remove from the pan and place on a plate. After all the chicken is removed, add green and yellow pepper strips to the same skillet and saute over medium heat 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the peppers to the plate and drain all the oil from the skillet.

Return the chicken to the pan and add the garlic. Lay all the pepper strips over the chicken and distribute the garbanzos over the top. Pour the vermouth over all. Cover and place in oven for 55 minutes.

When the chicken is done, remove from the pan and arrange on a serving platter, leaving the liquid in the pan. Sprinkle the olives over the chicken and then cover and keep warm. (If using the chives, add at the very end.) Turn the oven up to broil.

Slowly stir the chicken broth into the flour in a separate container. Add this to the liquid left in the cooking pan and stir to thicken the sauce over medium heat. Pour the thickened mixture over the chicken and run the entire dish under the broiler for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chives, if using.

Serve with rice or flat noodles and enjoy.

You are welcome to follow me in my kitchen and garden at http://seasonsatmyhouse.blogspot.com




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Home Recipes from GraceAnn Walden

MoleWhen it comes to men, I’ve had an extremely interesting life (not that it’s over). When I lived in a gay hotel in the Castro, I met a follower of guru Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh. You may remember he was a popular Indian guru with many followers here, in Europe and India. After he moved his group to Oregon, he and several members got into big trouble with the law.

My boyfriend Yoga Krishna was from Washington State. I think his real name was Charlie. We didn’t have much money, so we ate food that I made, listened to music, and enjoyed marathon sex. He wore orange shirts and a necklace of large beads, with a picture of Rajneesh in the center.

In a move to convert me, he brought me tapes of Rajneesh’s talks. We also did the dynamic meditation, which seemed to me to be primarily about hyperventilating. For my birthday, he gave me Zorba the Buddha: Rajneesh Cookbook by Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh (author), Swami Premdharma (editor).

I don’t think the Bhagwan did much cooking. He was too busy giving his philosophical talks or driving one of his 93 Rolls-Royces, gifted by followers. But like all gurus, he had a kernel of truth to his beliefs.

Here are his Ten Commandments and also a recipe, which over the years I have tweaked a bit:

1. Never obey anyone's command unless it is coming from within you also.
2.
There is no God other than life itself.
3.
Truth is within you; do not search for it elsewhere.
4.
Love is prayer.
5.
To become a nothingness is the door to truth. Nothingness itself is the means, the goal and attainment.
6.
Life is now and here.
7. Live wakefully.
8. Do not swim — float.
9. Die each moment so that you can be new each moment.
10. Do not search. That which is, is. Stop and see.



Mole from Rajneeshpuram
(Makes 6 cups)

2 red chili peppers, seeded and minced
10
cloves of garlic, minced
1/2
cup vegetable oil
3/4
cup peanut butter
3 1/2
tablespoons dark chili powder
1
quart chicken stock
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
1 teaspoon cinnamon
  Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons peanuts, chopped


Fry chili peppers and garlic in oil. Whisk in peanut butter, chili powder, stock, cocoa, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. 

Bring to a simmer, and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring. Remove from stove. Tastes better if it used a few hours later, after flavors meld.

When you serve the sauce over meat or vegetables, sprinkle chopped peanuts on top.


- GraceAnn


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Cookbook Review

Takashi’s Noodles

By Takashi Yagihashi with Harris Salat
Ten Speed Press

ISBN 978-1-58008-965-4
$24.95

Many years ago, I met Takashi Yagihashi in Las Vegas at the opening of Napa restaurant, headed up by the late chef Jean-Louis Palladin. A whole flock of chefs flew in to wish Palladin well and Yagihashi was one of them.

At that time, he was at Tribute, a restaurant that had put the area outside of Detroit on the map. He went on to win the James Beard Award for best Midwestern chef.

I don’t remember what dish he made, just that all the biggy chefs were there — Daniel Boulud, Michel Richard, Hubert Keller, and more. Most of them would eventually be seduced by the Vegas draw, even Yagihashi.

In 2008, he opened Takashi’s in Chicago. These days he is in the process of opening noodle shops around the country in partnership with Macy’s. So, it’s not a surprise he’s written a book, which can only enhance his noodle shop deal.

In this book, Takashi covers all the various types of Japanese and other Asian noodles, plus Italian pasta. Divided into chapters he covers ramen, soba and udon, somen, rice noodles and bean thread noodles, plus pasta.

My favorite Japanese noodle, first tasted here in San Francisco at Mifune restaurant in Japantown is soba made from buckwheat.

Don’t miss his step-by-step directions with photos for making gyoza, or his sophisticated recipe for potato gnocchi in lemon-butter sauce with scallops and sea urchin, or his rustic slow-cooked oxtails with rice noodles. 

I chose to share this recipe with you, readers, because it piqued my interest and it contained some of my favorite Japanese ingredients: soba noodles, natto and quail eggs. It is also pictured on the front cover of the book. Be patient, there are several steps.

After I made this recipe yesterday, it struck me that I could eat this once a week for a long time. It’s like a Cobb salad that you mix to enjoy.




Natto Soba
(Serves 4)

14
ounces fresh or dried soba noodles
2
2-ounce packets of natto (fermented soybeans), defrosted and mixed with 1 teaspoon
Japanese soy sauce
1/2
cup shredded nori (seaweed)
1/2 cup green onions both white and green part, thinly sliced
1 cup packed katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
4 quail eggs

Prepare an ice bath — a large bowl with water and ice, in order to stop cooking.

Cook the noodles by placing them in a metal strainer and submerging them in boiling water. Cook fresh noodles one minute; dried soba 4–5 minutes. 

Rinse the noodles in cold water. Plunge in ice bath. Drain well.

Divide the noodles among four bowls, arrange small mounds of natto, nori, green onions, bonito flakes over the noodles, arranging the garnishes in a circle.

It's difficult to crack quail eggs, so cut off top and pour egg into the center of the bowl. Serve with cold soba broth in separate small bowls. To eat, mix thoroughly.


Cold Soba Broth


5
cups dashi (see below)
1 1/2 cups Japanese soy sauce
1 1/2 cups mirin
3/4 cups packed katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)

Ready an ice bath and set aside. Combine the dashi, soy sauce and mirin in a stockpot over high heat. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to simmer and add the bonito flakes. Simmer for 2 minutes; turn off the heat and let sit for 3 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl and place the bowl in the ice bath to cool.



Recipe for Dashi
(double this and freeze excess)

2
large pieces kombu (kelp) approximately 10 by 4 each, gently wiped with a damp towel
2 quarts plus 1 cup water
2 cups packed katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)

Place the kombu and water in a large stockpot and soak for 20 minutes at room temperature. Overnight is even better.

Bring to a boil over high heat, add the bonito flakes and gently mix. Simmer for 10 minutes longer. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.



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Tools & Toys: Shun Classic 6" Damascus-Look Ultimate Utility Sandwich Knife

This part serrated utility knife is perfect for cutting vegetables and meat, but I use it most often for cutting sandwiches. The Damascus-look blade (the look and feel of Damascus steel, but without the rusting problems) reduces sticking, resulting in less damage to the food being cut and faster prep times.

It also features a stable D-shaped handle design so it rests precisely in the curve of your fingers as they curl around the handle. The asymmetrical bolster is ground out more on the right side to provide proper finger placement and an easy, secure grip. The knife balances perfectly, with the pivot point just ahead of where the handle sweeps out of the blade.

$99 at KnifeCenter.com

 

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