Cookbook Review
The Asian Cook
By Terry Tan
Laurel Glen Publishing, $27.95
ISBN-10: 1903221501
First published in 2003 and republished in 2005, this book didn’t get any buzz. I’ve been around the food biz long enough to know that unless you’re connected to major food writers — the establishment — you’re out of luck.
But this is a wonderful book. It even has a plastic overlay cover for serious cooks who want to roll through some recipes and might splatter.
As we all know, Asian cuisine is one of the most popular, although there are many subtle variations of cuisine and culinary styles within Asia. The Asian Cook not only looks at the cuisine of each country or region, but also at the ingredients and tools that give each country its own particular brand of cuisine. All of the tools from the regions are featured with instructions on how to use them. This is accompanied by a collection of recipes that characterizes all of the cultural variations.
You will find background and recipes covering the foods of China, Japan, Korea, India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Myanmar, Kampuchea, Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia.
More important than a clutch of recipes are the terrific photos of ingredients and techniques. In the China section, the recipe is a unique Peking-style caramel walnuts; another is fish in chili bean sauce, braised five-spice pork belly, and a fabulous fried rice recipe. One of my absolute faves is steamed winter melon soup.
Don’t expect dozens of recipes from each country, but what is there is choice.
Terry Tan is a food writer, chef and cookery teacher. From Singapore and of Chinese/Thai and Indonesian extraction, Tan has written several books on Asian cooking, including The Complete Asian Cookbook, Oriental Cooking and The Manya Cookbook. He is culinary consultant to Singapore Airlines, does food development for Amoy Foods, and lectures on Asian cookery.
Because I have included my recipe for pho, I have also included a fantastic recipe for Vietnamese Cabbage Salad from Tan’s book. It is a perfect vegetarian main dish, or side dish to grilled chicken, for example. Because of the inclusion of peanuts in his recipe, which are a problem these days (salmonella), I have substituted cashews.
Vietnamese Cabbage Salad
(serves 8-10)
1 |
head white cabbage |
1 |
cucumber |
2 |
carrots |
1 |
bunch green onions |
| 5 |
cloves garlic |
| 1-2 |
teaspoons shredded ginger |
| 6 |
tablespoons sugar |
| 3 |
tablespoons white vinegar |
| |
Juice of 2 lemons or limes |
| 2-3 |
teaspoons sesame oil |
| 1/2 |
teaspoon dried chili flakes |
| 2 |
teaspoons light soy sauce or fish sauce |
| 3 |
tablespoons cilantro, chopped |
| 1 |
tablespoon mint, chopped |
| 6-8 |
tablespoons cashews, chopped |
| |
Pinch of salt |
Core and thinly slice the cabbage. Thinly slice the carrots, green onions, garlic, and cucumber.
In a large bowl, combine these four aforementioned ingredients and sprinkle with salt.
Set aside for 30 minutes to drain, then squeeze out excess moisture in handfuls.
Add all the remaining ingredients to the vegetables. Taste for balance. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Before serving, drain the salad again. Serve garnished with cashews.