First Ribs of Spring

Now that the sun is starting to show itself more often and the temperatures are starting to rise, all I can think of is grilling. One of my family’s favorite dishes is something I truly enjoy grilling — baby back ribs. Young and old alike enjoy these finger-licking good morsels and their tender, sweet meat makes an excellent medium for a wide palette of seasonings and sauces. The most common preparation for ribs is slathering them with a sweet and spicy sauce, which requires a bib and a stack of napkins. But for this week’s recipe, I decided to pay tribute to the Memphis school of ribs with a couple of my favorite spice rubs. 

Brown Sugar Cayenne Ribs
(serves 6–9)

4	tablespoons dark brown sugar
2	tablespoons kosher salt
1	tablespoon black pepper
2	teaspoons paprika
2	teaspoons cayenne pepper
1	teaspoon cumin
2-3	full racks of baby back ribs

Dipping Sauce

3	tablespoons ketchup
3	tablespoons brown sugar
1	tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1	teaspoon cayenne pepper

In a bowl, combine all dry ingredients. Sprinkle evenly over both sides of the ribs. Pat the rub gently into the meat. Let meat sit for 15 minutes. Prepare a medium fire for cooking indirectly. Cook ribs meat side up for 20 minutes. Flip over and cook 20 to 30 minutes, until ribs hang limp when lifted.

Meanwhile, prepare the dipping sauce by combining ingredients in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat stirring constantly until sugar is dissolved. Serve warm.

Note: This makes about 1/2 cup of sauce; double the quantities if you want extra.

Porcini Mushroom-Rubbed Ribs
(serves 6-8)

3	tablespoons dried porcini mushrooms ground in an electric mill
1	tablespoon kosher salt
2	teaspoons ground oregano
2	teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
1	teaspoon cayenne pepper
2	teaspoons paprika
1	teaspoon ground ginger
2-3	full racks of baby back ribs

In a bowl, combine all dry ingredients. Repeat preparation and cooking directions from above.

Note: If you are unfortunate enough not to own a barbecue, you can prepare the ribs in your oven by cooking them in a shallow baking dish in an oven preheated to 325 degrees.

Cheers,
Bill

For more of Bill's recipes, visit http://www.northsidesf.com/kitchenlesscook.html
E-mail: bill@yummyletter.com

Home Recipes from GraceAnn Walden
“Wielkanocne wi towanie” or "La Festa di Pasqua"

I think I grew up more a Christmas-Catholic than an Easter-Catholic. My Italian friends, and especially my Polish friends, really made a big deal out of Easter.

My Polish friend Betty’s mother laid out a whole table of food that the priest came to bless on Holy Saturday, the day before Easter. She displayed “paska,” cakes, eggs, horseradish, sausages, ham, salt, pepper, and tiny sugar lambs. She told me that eggs are a symbol of life, horseradish refers to the bitterness of the passion of Christ, and the sugar lambs represent Jesus.

My Italian friends served a dinner with the mandatory eggs, lamb, and bread. Besides eggs representing the origins of life, rebirth, hope, and new beginnings, they are abundantly present in the Easter breads and sweet and savory cakes of the season. Hollow chocolate eggs, often with a gift inside, are traditionally exchanged.

The lamb, representing innocence and the sacrificed Christ (the Lamb of God), is referred to as the Pascal Lamb. It is the meat of choice on an Italian dinner table at Easter. Some families will roast an entire lamb.

People from Genoa eat baby goat or capretto at Easter. I have fond memories of the late Leo Iacopi of Iacopi Meats, formerly at Grant and Union Streets, scouring Northern California for baby goat. He marinated it in red wine, bay leaves, garlic and onions for a week or more.

Every year I bought a hindquarter and roasted it. Although capretto is mild tasting like lamb, my partner didn’t like it, so I ate it for a couple of weeks.

All over North Beach whole eggs baked into braided bread is part of the theme of Easter.

The traditional Italian Easter cake, called columba, is made in the shape of a dove, the symbol of peace. They are always available at Victoria Pastry at Stockton and Vallejo Streets.

My mother made a pretty traditional ham. She bought a cooked ham and then tarted it up. Years later, I added Dijon mustard to her recipe.

Mom's Ham

1	8-pound cooked ham
1/2	cup Dijon mustard
2/3	cup dark brown sugar
1/2	teaspoon ground cloves
1/2	teaspoon ground black pepper
	can of Dole pineapple rings
	whole cloves

With a fork, stir together mustard, brown sugar, ground cloves, and pepper. With a knife, spread glaze over ham. Attach pineapple rings to ham with cloves.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Bake ham 30 minutes. Take out from oven and reapply glaze. Turn oven up to 350 degrees. Bake 15-20 minutes more until pineapple browns a bit and glaze is darker.

Let rest, remove some of the pineapple rings. Serve ham slices with a pineapple ring.

Happy cooking,
GraceAnn

Cookbook Review

Artisanal Cocktails: Drinks Inspired by the Seasons
By Scott Beattie
Ten Speed Press, $24.95
ISBN 978-1-58008-921-0

I first met Scott Beattie when I dined at Cyrus a couple of years ago. I can’t remember the name of the drink he made me, but it looked, in the glass, like an explosion in a confetti factory. And it was delish!

Finally we have a book in which we can learn from one of the top new wave of “chef-bartenders.” Bartending is so much more than a pour, a shake and some exotic fruit. Learn how to make spiced simple syrups, how to juice, and even how to prepare the more exotic foams.

Like a restaurant chef, Beattie explores his drink repertoire through the bounty of the seasons. In fall, expect apple, lemongrass and pomegranate. In summer, there’s mint, blackberries, plums, and watermelon.

Most of his recipes do require lots of unusual ingredients and high-priced liquors, but here is one of his best recipes that won’t bankrupt you. Serve this margarita before Easter dinner.

Margarita
(Serves 1)

1/2	lime for rim
3	tablespoons black sea salt (may substitute regular salt) for rim
2	ounces 100 percent agave silver tequila
1/2	ounce Cointreau
3/4	ounce freshly squeezed lime juice
1/4	ounce simple syrup (combine equal parts boiling water and superfine granulated sugar; store in the fridge for up to one month)

Rub the lime around the rim of the glass. Shake off excess. Dip the glass into the salt. Combine tequila, Cointreau, juice, and syrup. Mix well. Add cubes and shake well. Pour into salt-rimmed glass.

If you find it too tart; reshake with more syrup.

— GraceAnn

Tools & Toys: All-Clad Nonstick Round Grill Pan or Square Griddle

Deal of the Week: All-Clad Nonstick Round Grill Pan or Square Griddle for $38.49!

All-Clad LTD nonstick is my cookware of choice for everyday tasks, but prices can be prohibitive. If you’ve always wanted to try All-Clad (or if you’d like to add some specialty pieces to your collection), Cooking.com has two special offers that are almost too good to be true:

The 12-inch Round Grill is one of my favorite tools — it’s perfect for cooking bacon, steaks, panini-style sandwiches, and burgers, with ridges to catch excess drippings and give you lovely grill marks. The low sides make lifting and flipping food easy, while the nonstick surface allows you to cook more healthfully, using less oil, and it also makes cleaning up a breeze.

Retail: $145. Regular price: $101.95. Sale price: $38.49 at Cooking.com

The 11-inch Square Griddle also works well for grilling sandwiches, but I use mine mostly for making pancakes and frying eggs; it’s also ideal for quick-searing meats. The pan's raised sides helps to keep food from sliding off, and it has the same nonstick surface as the grill pan, which makes for easy cleanup and less oil use. Reworded per GAW’s suggestion.

Originally designed for professional chefs, All-Clad LTD pans have three layers bonded together to ensure even heating. The pure aluminum core is fused between the extra-thick, anodized exterior and the durable, nonstick cooking surface, which won't react with food. Handles are fastened with non-corrosive rivets. Pans are guaranteed not to scratch, chip or peel.

Retail: $150. Regular price: $101.95. Sale price: $38.49 at Cooking.com
Avo Saver: $3.99 at La Prima

— Susan