Volume 1 Issue 8 March 25, 2009
grape goddess®
By Catherine Fallis
Yummy Varietals of the Week: Feisty Spanish Reds
Savvy women understand the power of red. While wearing it one exudes confidence, power and femininity. Even a small statement such as a pair of fire-engine red shoes, or a handbag emphasizes feminine power and sexiness in ways pink only dreams of. Bullfighters too know the power of red, theatrically waving the final small cape before going in for the kill. Completing the circle, the bull leaves in its wake Sangre de Toro, bull’s blood, as a fiery if short-lived legacy.
Like a red leather jacket, Rioja wine is a powerful ace in the hole. Stylish, classy, old world, and elegant enough to win the approval of the most sophisticated in your crowd, the best of these wines carry an intriguing undercurrent of feistiness never found in, say, for example, a Bordeaux, the wine it is most often compared to.
Spain’s classic red wine producing region, La Rioja, forms a geographic as well as political border to the Basque regions of Bilbao and San Sebastian to the north. About an hour or so south by car through the Sierra Cantabria, or Basque Mountains, this bucolic countryside is home to many of Bilbao’s police force, which otherwise would be easy targets of the independence movement. In Basque country, one in three people are members, and are responsible for the continual terrorist bombings. Don’t let this stop you from visiting the area, though. According to Maria Martinez-Sierra, winemaker at Bodegas Montecillo, “Rioja is the real Spain.” The area is very conservative with a strong work ethic, and locals openly express pride in being Riojan.
Tempranillo is the main grape of red Rioja (the best white Riojas are Viura-based and the best of those are lively, crisp and lemony). Tempranillo is also the main red grape of all of Spain, and goes under many names, including Tinto, Tinto Fino, Tinto del Pais, Ull de Lebre, Ojo de Liebre, and Cencibel. Most famous for Rioja and for the long-lived wines of the Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo ripens early (temprano means early in Spanish), has thick skin, and creates deeply colored wines. In Portugal it is known as Tinta Roriz and Tinta Aragonez, and in Argentina as Tempranilla. In general it pairs well with Manchego cheese, grilled sea bass, leg of lamb, or roast beef.
In La Rioja, Tempranillo expresses itself differently from vineyards in high-elevation Alta, warmer and flatter Baja, and a small area on the other side of the Rio Ebro, Alavesa, where it is known for finesse. Winemakers are free to blend grapes from across these zones, and also have the freedom to blend in Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo grapes for balance. Barrel aging is required and controlled by the local Consejo Regulador, so you know that, for example, if your bottle says Reserva, it means it. Crianza is in its second year upon release, matured for at least one year in barrel. Reserva is aged at least three years, one in cask, and Gran Reservas are aged a minimum of two years in barrel and three in the bottle. Even at the Crianza level, the wines are balanced, expressive and supple, not at all like the often harsh, disjointed, high alcohol new releases from so many parts of the world.
Yummy Winemaker of the Week: Maria Martinez-Sierra of Bodegas Montecillo
With a fiery personality bubbling up only occasionally under her
smooth, polished, and very elegant exterior, Maria Martinez-Sierra, a winemaker for over 30 years at Bodegas Montecillo, started when women winemakers were virtually unheard of in Spain. She believes in using 100 percent Tempranillo, aging it in untoasted French oak barrels coopered at the estate, and finishing the bottles with natural bark corks also manufactured at the estate; both are from trees she personally selects on her frequent forest visits. She believes one of the major causes of TCA, or cork spoilage (corkiness), is the prevalence of residual pesticides in the forests.
Martinez-Sierra’s 1981 Montecillo Gran Reserva Seleccion Especial is “her baby” and is currently available in the United States in a four-pack for $380 that also includes the 1982, 1985, and 1991 vintages. Her 1994 Gran Reserva bottling — Montecillo 130th Anniversary Limited Edition Gran Reserva 1994 ($50) — pays homage not only to the winery's longevity and reputation, but also to the preservation of the traditional Rioja style. Younger releases include the 2005 Montecillo Rioja Crianza, 2003 Montecillo Rioja Reserva, and the 2001 Montecillo Rioja Gran Reserva. All are delicious with grilled porterhouse steak, braised venison with wild mushrooms, rack of lamb, and artisan cheeses. The bright, fresh Crianza is $11.99 at
Andronico’s Market and at all Lucky Supermarkets as of April.
SIP-worthy Events
Bud Break on the Central Coast: A Three-Day and Two-Night California Central Coast Wine Country Experience
April 24–26, 2009
Paso Robles, Kris Penick, 805-237-0400
Meet the personalities shaping the Central Coast wine country. Three days and two nights of winery dinners, vineyard tours, informative tastings, and a chance to experience wine country from the prospective of a producer. Highlights include:
- Grand gourmet dinner in the wine caves at Eberle Winery.
- Special gold medal tasting from the Central Coast wine competition.
- Witness bud break in the vineyard with a viticulture expert.
- Meet and taste with notable Paso Robles winemakers.
- Make your own cuvee to take home.
- Sparkling wine tasting and brunch at beautiful Carmody McKnight Winery.
- Wine Country lunch at Jada Winery.
- Small group size for an intimate, fun and educational experience.
Visits to 10 premiere wineries and vineyards escorted by an industry leader of over 20 years; $480 per person.
Catherine Fallis is the fifth woman in the world to have earned the title of Master Sommelier, and is also a Certified Wine Professional. To read more of her writings on wine, please visit
www.planetgrape.com. E-mail: grapegoddess@yummyletter.com
