I teach a class on wine and chocolate pairing, and have come to the conclusion that the best wines for this decadent, stimulating treat are sweet.
Based on a blend of chocolate from Ghana, Brix Chocolate is on a mission to change that. Brix comes in three types, a milk chocolate (45 percent cocoa), which they recommend with Pinot Noir, Rosé, Burgundy, ice wine, or port; a medium dark (60 percent cocoa) for Syrah and Zinfandel; and an extra dark (70 percent cocoa) for big reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux and Barolo.
After some research involving the wines they suggested and then wines I felt would work, I have to say I am still not convinced that chocolate and dry wine is a good match. The milk chocolate is so sweet that it made even a ripe California Pinot Noir taste bitter. I would not want that on my palate with a fine Red Burgundy. As for the medium dark, it was the earthiest of the trio, but still a bit sweet for my palate to pair with all but the cult-style, port-like Zinfandels. The extra dark, while satisfying on its own, would challenge any nuance of Bordeaux or Barolo, though a ripe, opulent California Cab could easily hold its own.
The other challenge I see for this product is that it is sold in a solid 8-ounce brick, so it has to be chopped or pounded into serving pieces, which gets messy. I would think drops or little squares would have more appeal.
Barbera is an ancient variety with historical roots in Italy. This vigorous, hearty, late ripener excels in Piedmont, where gentle fogs and undulating hills provide the ideal microclimate. This is a very dark-skinned, high acid grape, similar on paper to Nebbiolo. However, at its height Barbera is still a grapey, refreshing table wine, whereas Nebbiolo-based Barolos or Barbarescos are ethereal, intellectual wines. Nebbiolo is much more problematic in the vineyard, while Barbera is a breeze to grow. Barbera is one of those rare Italian grapes that is, conveniently, also the name of the wine.
In Piedmont, Barbera accounts for half the total grape production in a typical year. Styles range from light and tart to opulent, fruit forward and oaky. The traditional style has soft tannins, plummy, dark berry, and violet notes, a spicy, grapey palate, and the kind of tartness so refreshing in lemonade. While the wine cognescenti ooh and ah over Barolo, everyone else, including the Barolo producers, drinks Barbera. The wine is incredibly refreshing, a simple pleasure rather than intellectual experience, and pairs beautifully with a wide range of food. Better examples come from the sub-zones of Asti, Alba and Monferrato. To avoid the super-extracted, heavily oaked trendy style, stay in the $15 price range.
Barbera is also grown in Oltrepo Pavese, Lombardy, Emilia Romagna, and Sardinia for simple, everyday wine. In San Juan, Argentina, it is the most cultivated red variety, and is heavily planted in nearby Mendoza as well. Much of this grapey, perfumed, tart wine is consumed locally. Barbera is grown, following on the success of Italian varietals Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio, in almost every region in the state of California. From Mendocino in the north to Santa Barbara in the south, all through the Central Valley, and up into the Sierra Foothills, Barbera, for the most part, mimics the traditional Italian style, though with riper fruit, fuller body, and the occasional splash of vanilla from toasted oak barrels.
Italian red wines warm the soul no matter what the season, and the 2006 Castino Luigi Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy is a great choice. Light in body with a lively chewiness and grip, this wine has notes of plum, cherry, mushroom, earth, and black licorice. It is a delightful, traditional/modern hybrid with gorgeous fruit but no oak. Available at
At Beverages and More, look for the zesty 2005 Michele Chiarlo Le Orme Barbera d’Asti Superiore, Piedmont, Italy, $14.99, and another classic, a California version, the rich, earthy and supple 2006 Montevina Barbera Terra d’Oro, Amador County, $16.99.
All three of these wines are ideal accompaniments for rich, wintery roasts and stews, or to serve with a selection of Piemontese cheeses at the end of the meal.
6th Annual Russian River Valley Winegrowers Crab & Fennel Fest Saturday, March 7 Sonoma County Fairgrounds, Santa Rosa, 707-521-2535
Held in conjunction with the 31st Annual Wine Road Barrel Tasting weekend, this reception and silent auction (5:30 p.m.) and dinner (6:00 to 7:30 p.m.) showcases not only the local Russian River Valley wines, including a custom Merry Edwards blend (she is known as the Queen of Pinot Noir), but also delicious fresh Dungeness crab in a relaxed, casual atmosphere. Tickets are $55 per person and include two glasses of Russian River Valley wine. Reserved tables for 8 people are also available for $550.
France vs. California — The Great Taste-Off Professional Culinary Institute of Silicon Valley, 700 Hamilton Ave., Campbell Saturday, February 28, 12:30–2:00 p.m., 888-PCI-LEARN
Join me at the ultimate showdown: the great classics of France, including Bordeaux and Burgundy, side by side with their California counterparts. You be the judge! Classes are $75 per person. E-mail deriksen@pcichef.com for reservations and information.
Catherine Fallis is the fifth woman in the world to have earned the title of Master Sommelier, and is also a Certified Wine Professional. To read more of her writings on wine, please visit
Based on a blend of chocolate from Ghana, Brix Chocolate is on a mission to change that. Brix comes in three types, a milk chocolate (45 percent cocoa), which they recommend with Pinot Noir, Rosé, Burgundy, ice wine, or port; a medium dark (60 percent cocoa) for Syrah and Zinfandel; and an extra dark (70 percent cocoa) for big reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux and Barolo. 
Italian red wines warm the soul no matter what the season, and the 2006 Castino Luigi Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont, Italy is a great choice. Light in body with a lively chewiness and grip, this wine has notes of plum, cherry, mushroom, earth, and black licorice. It is a delightful, traditional/modern hybrid with gorgeous fruit but no oak. Available at
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