grape goddess®
By Catherine Fallis

Judgment of wine judges questioned

I chuckled when I read that a four-year study of California State Fair wine judging published in the Journal of Wine Economics found that only 10 percent of the judges were able to consistently give a similar rating to the same wine sampled multiple times in a large blind tasting. As an international wine judge for many years, I can honestly say I am not surprised. We judges are often paired by palate preferences (i.e., hedonistic California palate vs. more restrained European palate) and often grouped together with judges of varying degrees of expertise. In other words, at least every panel should have one advanced palate to go along with those who were invited (or not) for political reasons. Politics also influence our ratings. We are encouraged to give as many medals as possible, thus keeping the income flowing for the fair. We are also asked to taste up to several hundred wines in a day. Despite heapings of rare roast beef and soft, oily tree-ripened olives, even the keenest palate takes a beating.

Quite often I find myself arguing for the subtle wines, not having a great appreciation for the excessively candied, oaky, alcoholic, and hollow wines that a handful of critics have been favoring over the last decade. In fact, it is for this very position that in two cases I have not been invited back (I won’t name names). But the ranks are growing.

When California Chardonnay was beginning to spin wildly out of control (too fruity, too buttery, too oaky, too alcoholic), we judges used to specifically request not to be assigned to Chardonnay panels. Things got so bad that most fairs started making every judge taste a minimum number of Chardonnays, sort of like punishment. I used to wonder why this was not reported to the Chardonnay producers. Isn’t this a sign that something is wrong? Now look at us. So many wines, not only here, but all over the world are candied, sweet, alcoholic, unbalanced. When judges don’t want to taste those wines that should be a sign. And when tasting rooms are using gadgets to “soften the blow” of the wine, shouldn’t that also be a sign? Those winemakers should be embarrassed. Consumers are not idiots. Not everyone believes in the scores. And most consumers use their own palates every day when they eat and drink their breakfast, lunch and dinner. Do they suddenly develop a handicap when they walk into a winery tasting room?

Keep in mind, too, that even a minor variation in how, where, or when the wine is tasted will give different results. I reviewed a top vintage Champagne a few months back. I retasted this same wine two weeks ago, and matched only two of seven aromatic and flavor profile descriptors (structural descriptors and notes related to quality and balance matched perfectly).

Rating wine, my friends, is an imperfect system, but the fairs are a valuable resource for small family wineries that don’t have a chance with the current major forces of wine media.

Adler Fels Winery Opens new Tasting Room
Adler Fels has opened its first tasting room in the Sonoma valley on Highway 12 in Kenwood, currently open daily (weekdays are the best days to visit). The new tasting room features their flagship Adler Fels brand, its proprietary Big Ass, Leaping Lizard and Coyote Creek labels as well as the Remick Ridge wines made by legendary winemaker Richard Arrowood for comedian and local vineyard owner Tommy Smothers. Visit the Web site for more information and directions.

Vintners Hall of Fame
This year’s Vintners Hall of Fame celebration and induction dinner takes place on March 14 at the CIA Greystone Napa Valley. For more information and reservations visit the Web site.

grape goddess® recommends: Wines of the Week

Off-the-beaten-path varietals is the theme of this week’s wine picks. Consulting winemaker Heidi Barrett, known for her opulent Napa Cabs, has her own label, La Sirena. Her 2007 La Sirena Moscato Azul Dry Muscat Canelli Napa Valley is beautifully expressive of this exotic, floral varietal, with notes of honeydew, rosewater, lilikoi, sweet ripe pineapple, and lychee. It is also bone dry and full in body. Both the Napa Valley Winery Exchange in San Francisco and Bounty Hunter in Napa offer this wine at $29.95.

Often wines made with Bonarda are described as untamed, wild and rustic, but with age and/or aeration they mellow into beautifully distinctive and food-friendly reds. (Swish around in a big carafe for a few moments and let sit for up to an hour if you have the time.) The 2005 Zolo Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina has aromas of mulberry, blueberry, plum, potting soil, fennel, and smoke. It is full, rich and intense with dark berry fruit, chewy fruit tannins and a gently drying finish. It’s a lot of wine for the price — $9.99 at Weimax Wines and Spirits in Burlingame.

Catherine Fallis is the fifth woman in the world to have earned the title of Master Sommelier, and is also a Certified Wine Professional. To read more of her writings on wine, please visit www.planetgrape.com.