In Mr. Owens’ World
Last Thursday I got to play on-air with uber-radio personality, Ronn Owens of KGO-AM (810).
We talked about a lot of restaurants including the debut of restaurateur Tom Duffy’s new place, Pickles, which opened Monday in the old Clown Alley space at 42 Columbus Ave (at Jackson) in San Francisco. (He was the former owner of the well-loved Myth Restaurant — soon to be a relocated Quince.)
Pickles sounds pretty swanky with a retractable roof over the patio area, a fireplace and open kitchen. Look for burgers, franks, the Clown Alley array of condiments, and the added complimentary bowls of pickled vegetables. They will serve lunch only for a month and then open for dinner nightly, serving until 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
For those of you who tuned in to hear Ronn and yours truly last Thursday, you may have been puzzled by a blip of silence at the end of the show, followed by Ronn and I laughing heartily.
A man called in from Danville and asked if I had been to
McNamara’s in Danville. He then said, “They have great steaks and drinks and all the waitresses have big t----.”
Ronn’s producer, Mark Silverman hit the seven-second-delay button, but everyone in the KGO offices heard it, as did lawyer Len Tillem, who was waiting to go on at noon. He said he didn’t know how to follow that.
Following my appearance, we received requests for 233 new subscriptions to the Yummy letter. Woo!
Muir Woods Going Organic?
Hold onto a redwood! We hear the concession stand at Muir Woods will get a facelift and go organic. Stay tuned for details.
Too Much Mario
His show, Molto Mario means “a lot of Mario,” but the audience at the $1,000-a-plate dinner at the South Beach Wine and Food Festival may have had enough of Manhattan-based chef Mario Batali for a while.
He was tapped to be the M.C. at the dinner honoring King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia of Spain, probably because of his PBS show with Gwyneth Paltrow and others, called Spain — On the Road Again.
When he couldn’t get the crowd’s attention as M.C., he said, “All you weasel f----wads in the back corners, can I have 10 seconds of your time?”

The Miami Herald went on to report that the queen blanched while the king whistled, which is akin to booing in the United States.

But Batali wasn’t done. In introducing chef José Andrés, of the highly rated Bazaar in Los Angeles, he said about Andres, “The most motherf---ing stars of any Spanish restaurant in the U.S.” Then he reportedly goosed Andres.
Manhattan foodie friends of mine have told me, Batali is persona non grata at the Union Square Greenmarket.
Here’s my friend’s scoop:
The word is that he chews or tries to chew everyone down on price, even though he buys very little. He also is supposed to have a ‘you may kiss my ring" kind of imperiousness when he shows up … which is rare.
Square Happenings
It’s taken a while, but we are happy to report that Gary Danko has finally obtained his building permits for his Ghirardelli Square-based second restaurant. There are more developments to come, no doubt.
Most folks know that Marché on the Square closed its doors about a month ago at Ghirardelli. A new place from a restaurateur who already has a successful San Francisco spot is rumored to be taking over the space. Stay tuned.
The Washington Square Bar & Grill opens for sure next Monday.
But recently a worried reader called to tell me
O’Neills Irish Pub in Ghirardelli was shuttered. Well, don’t get your Guinness curdled, it’s only closed for a couple of weeks for renovations. Two other locations can still pull you a brew — one by the ballpark and the other in San Mateo.
Azie’s Future
I spoke with
Restaurant Lulu owner Rowena Wu’s son, Simon Ng, who is also op manager of Restaurant Lulu and the nearby Azie, which is closed.
Ng said that they are still using Azie for private events and that they will not reconcept the restaurant until late spring. At that time, the original architect Cass Calder Smith will redesign it.
“After all, it’s his baby,” says Ng.
Bargain of the Week
Most folks know I sleep (and garden) in Novato, but I live in North Beach.
I was in the nabe last Thursday and someone asked me if I was going to the weekly lunch at Gino & Carlo Cocktail Lounge. I hadn’t been in years.
On the spur of the moment, I squeezed in. It’s like an old-time neighborhood celebration with retirees, working people, the local priest, and even a couple of bookies. Some women get dressed up for it.
When I arrived, every seat at the bar was taken with diners and two long tables were set up where the pool tables usually are.
The bill of fare began with lots of Italian bread, a nice salad with lettuce, mild chilies, two kinds of beans, shredded carrots and tomatoes, and followed by bowls of penne with a very good meat sauce.
Diners could choose either a large chicken breast or rack of lamb. On the table, carafes of house red wine never went empty. If you chose the chicken, the tab was $15; $20 for the rack. That included everything. Stop by to purchase a ticket in advance. Gino & Carlo is located at 548 Green Street (near Grant).
Yay, for the home team
Southern Novato has very few really good restaurants, so the
Sonoma Latina Grill, which opened in the new Hamilton Marketplace at 5800 Nave Drive, Suite D, is welcome.
The fast-casual concept — you get your food at a cafeteria-like line and then seat yourself — is from Windsor residents Mike and Lucy Tomayo. What sets the place apart is that everything is made from scratch, including the tortillas. All the meats are antibiotic or hormone-free, or organic. So, are the beans.
My BFF, Pam and I gave it a whirl and it was pretty good. My quesadilla was nicely made with barbeque beef and cheese, while her grilled chicken was perfectly cooked (although under-seasoned). The chicken mole in the burrito was a little sweet, but the flat bread with three dips was amazing: tomatilla, guacamole and hummus. Yummy.
What’s a Girl to Do?
I know several gay people in Marin County, but I have not heard of one gay or lesbian bar. Strange.
James Schenk, who owns both the Peruvian-flavored Destino and the newish
Pisco Latin Lounge next door, both in Eureka Valley, has launched a ladies’ night on Tuesdays from 5-10 p.m. at Pisco.
He got the idea from his bartender. Steven Aleshire, who worked at Mecca, the stylish Castro District restaurant-lounge, which is now closed. Aleshire said ladies’ night there was always a draw.
Schenk says that groups of lesbians are carpooling in from Marin for the Latin cocktails, modern tapas and camaraderie.
Good Deal on the Peninsula
Zitune in downtown Los Altos has a 24 rating from Zagat, but that hasn’t stopped the owners from offering some cool promotions. On Corkage-Free Sundays, they invite you to bring in a favorite wine from your cellar. One proviso: it can’t be on Zitune’s list.
Another new promotion is called Mid-Week Marrakech Dinner. On Tuesdays and Wednesdays, diners can put together their own fixed price, three-course menu for $37. On the menu: appetizers, soups and salads ($8.25–$16.75); entrees ($21–$30) and desserts ($8–$10.25).
Chef-owner Chafik Larobi blends the foods of his native Morocco with seasonal California ingredients and French technique.
The Name Game
I’m a freak for interesting restaurant names. I remember when the powers that be had a cow about my friend, chef-owner Eric Torralba’s Sausalito restaurant, Antidote. What a great name for a restaurant serving modern deconstructed cuisine.
So, when my pal chef David in Vegas told me about this place, I knew I had to go there on my next trip to sin city. It’s
Hash House a Go Go. Think chicken and waffles. Their slogan: “Twisted Farm Food.” There is also one in San Diego.
We have a winner!
In our second contest, readers were asked to translate this phrase:
“Piccola e la casa ma grande eil nostro cuore.”
Carol Vironda of Napa was the early bird with the answer:
“Our house is small, but our heart is big.”
She will receive my signed copy of the A16 cookbook.
Stay tuned for another contest next week.
The quote is pictured here. It hangs in Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store in North Beach.

GraceAnn
Email:
graceann@yummyletter.com
For more information about GraceAnn’s tours of North Beach, Chinatown, The New Mission, and Nob Hill, visit www.graceannwalden.net or contact her at gaw@sbcglobal.net.